Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Build a Harcombe Table. I’m on the hunt for a new kitchen table for my kitchen nook and I am wanting to build something a tad different. This might be a fabulous choice in that it can easily be a style that is lasting depending on the wood type and finish you choose, yet it is unique enough to not be boring after 5 minutes. I can envision this beauty in a reclaimed wood look or perhaps a bright shiny modern white… It’s just so hard to pull the trigger and decide on what to make, there are so many options… eek Xx… Rayan
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg jig
- Brad nailer
- 14 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¼” plywood
- 3 full sheets of ¼” plywood
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 2” screws
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – 1×2 at 84” – Top Frame
- 6 – 1×2 at 40-1/2” – Top Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 40-1/2” – Top Frame
- 8 – 1×2 at 11-1/4” – Top Frame
- 3 – 1×2 at 11” – Top Frame
- 7 – 1×2 at 10-3/4” – Top Frame
- 4 – 1×2 at 28-1/2” – Leg Frames
- 4 – 1×2 at 40-1/2” – Leg Frames
- 8 – 1×2 at 27” – Leg Frames
- 4 – 1×2 at 4” – Leg Frames
- 4 – 1×2 at 8” – Leg Frames
- 4 – ¼” plywood at 28-1/2” x 40-1/2” – Legs
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 11-3/4” x 42” – Underside
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 42” x 56-1/2” – Underside
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 42” x 84” – Top
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the top frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the two 84” pieces and the two 2×2 pieces. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The 2×2 pieces will be secured using countersunk 2” screws from the outside into the end of each piece. The smaller pieces will be staggered to offer additional support.
Cut the pieces for the leg frames and drill pocket holes in each end of the longer pieces except for the 40-1/2” pieces. Drill pocket holes in one end only of each of the 4” and 8” pieces. Assemble the frames as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The horizontal 27” pieces in the center will be added last to allow room to drive the pocket hole screws in the 4” and 8” pieces. Secure the end of the 4” and 8” ends (opposite the pocket hole screws) using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
The legs frames will be secured to the 2×2 pieces in the top frame using glue and several 2” screws.
Cut the pieces for the leg covering from the ¼” plywood. Secure to each side of each leg frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the plywood pieces for the underside of the table top. Secure to the underside of the top frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the top frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Fill any gaps in the edges of the top and legs using wood filler or Dry Dex.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
