Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Reclaimed Timber Side Table! We brought you Free DIY Furniture Plans: How to Make and Build a Reclaimed Timber Slat Media Stand and Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Reclaimed Timber Slat Coffee Table, so I'm thinking you guys might like plans for the matching side table! Yahoo. Let's not forget how amazing the Builders Showcase: Reclaimed Timber Slat Media Stand turned out! Marshall Wilde did a fabulous job, didn't he? Can't wait to see how tackles this collection next! Xx..Rayan
Showcase: Built From These Plans
$50-$75
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 14 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 2’ x 4’ sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- ½” diameter threaded rod with two nuts, approximately 20-1/4” long
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 32 – 1×3 at 20-1/4” – Sides (14 pieces will have a ½” diameter hole drilled in one end)
- 44 – 1×3 at 2-1/2” – Top & Sides
- 16 – 1×3 at 19” – Top & Base Frame
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 15-1/4” – Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14” x 20-1/4” – Back
- 24 – 1×2 at 2-1/2” – Door
- 13 – 1×3 at 16-3/8” – Door (All will have a ½” diameter hole drilled in one end)
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
The table is constructed from the top down. Where indicated, there will be two pieces with a countersunk hole large enough to capture the nuts for the threaded rod which acts as the door hinge. Each piece should be finished before assembly, and the ends with the holes (for the threaded rod) should be coated with paste wax to allow the door to open and close smoothly.
Cut the pieces for the top. Layer the 19” pieces boards and 2-1/2” blocks securing each board and block with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Position two 20-1/4” boards on the top as shown in the drawing. Drill a countersunk hole large enough to capture the nut for the threaded rod and position the board with the hole on the side where the “hinge” will be located.
The next layer will consist of the 2-1/2” blocks, as well as the 16-3/8” board for the door. Secure with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
The next layer will consist of two 20-1/4” boards (one with the hole at the “hinge” side) and the door spacers. Secure the pieces with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Insert the threaded rod and tighten into the nut.
Continue layering the blocks, side boards, door spacers, and door boards, fastening the pieces with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, until all of the door boards have been used.
Layer two 20-1/4” boards, one with a countersunk hole to capture the remaining nut. Fasten the boards in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Insert into the back of the cabinet and secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom and drill pocket holes in the two 14” edges. Secure to two of the 19” boards using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Secure the entire piece to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Layer the final four boards and four blocks then secure using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
