Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Queen Sized Alpine Bed. I love the clean lines with that modern vibe this bed has. This beauty will be easy to build and a fabulous addition to any room, not to mention the accidental shelf that is created at the top of the headboard… that baby will come in handy for setting things. Don’t you love that? I do… Xx… Rayan
$50-$75
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- 3 – 1×2 at 8’
- 23 – 1×3 at 6’
- 6 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 2-1/2” screws
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 4-1/2” – Foot Frame & Support Legs
- 1 – 2×2 at 64” – Foot Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 90” – Sides
- 2 – 2×2 at 26-1/8” – Headboard Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 5” – Headboard Frame
- 2 – 2×2 at 32” – Headboard Legs
- 3 – 2×2 at 61” – Headboard Stretchers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 61” – Shelf
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/8” x 61” – Headboard
- 3 – 1×2 at 81” – Slat Supports
- 23 – 1×3 at 61” – Slats
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
** Please read the instructions thoroughly… There are areas where no glue will be used for disassembly purposes.**
Cut the pieces for the foot frame and foot frame legs. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in one end only of each leg. Secure to the frame piece using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the sides and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the foot frame using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. DO NOT USE GLUE! (It may need to be disassembled some day!!)
Cut the pieces for the headboard legs. Attach the side piece to the legs using 2-1/2” pocket hole screws only.
Cut the pieces for the headboard frame. Cut the angles at 5.5 degrees in both ends of the vertical pieces, and the front edge only of the smaller horizontal piece. Drill pocket holes in the lower end of the longer pieces and the angled end of each smaller piece. Remember – there will be a right side and a left side! Attach the pieces to each other using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. Attach to the headboard legs also using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws. When attaching to the side pieces, use 2-1/2” pocket hole screws but DO NOT USE GLUE! This way, if the bed has to be disassembled, the entire headboard will be one piece and the sides will be separate.
Cut the pieces for the headboard stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Position as shown with the upper stretcher located ¾” down from the top of the leg, then secure using glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the shelf and cut a 5.5 degree bevel in one long edge. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the shorter edges. Secure to the headboard frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the headboard and cut a 5.5 degree bevel in the top edge. Drill pocket holes on the opposite side of this edge, as well as each shorter edge. Secure to the headboard frame using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the slat supports and support legs. Drill pocket holes in each end of each slat support as well as one long edge of two of the support pieces.
Position the legs on the bottom of the “plain” support (the one with pocket holes at each end) and secure to this piece using glue and countersunk 2-1/2” screws through the support into the legs. Attach to the headboard frame and foot frame using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws – NO GLUE! The bottom edge of the support will be flush with the bottom edge of the frames.
Attach the other two support pieces to the sides using 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. It is ok to use glue to attach these pieces to the side pieces only (so that they are one piece) but DO NOT USE GLUE when securing the pieces to the headboard frame and foot frame.
Cut the piece for the slats. They will be spaced approximately 1” apart except at the headboard and foot frame where the spacing will be approximately ¾”. Secure to the supports using countersunk 1-1/4” screws and NO GLUE!
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
