Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a Pickford Cabinet, with two drawers and four cubbies with doors.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$50-$75
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Router with a rabbeting bit to cut a 3/8” wide by ¼” deep rabbet
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
- Hammer
- Wood Chisel
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 1 half sheet of ½” plywood
- 1 full sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1/2” brad nails
- Edge banding
- 4 sets of non-mortise hinges
- 12 cabinet pulls
- 2 door handles
- Glass or acrylic cut to fit inside glass door frames
- 4 bun feet at 3” tall plus plates for installation
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – ¾”plywood at 13-3/4” x 31-1/2” – Top & Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 12-1/4” x 48-1/2” – Sides
- 1 – ¾”plywood at 11-1/2” x 48-1/2” – Divider
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 11-1/2” x 13-7/8” – Shelves
- 2 – ½” plywood at 10-1/4” x 12-5/8” – Drawer Bottoms
- 4 – ½” plywood at 7-7/16” x 10-1/4” – Drawer Sides
- 4 – ½” plywood at 7-7/16” x 13-5/8” – Drawer Front & Back
- 12 – ¼” plywood at 6-3/4” x 7-7/16” – False Drawer Fronts
- 2 – ½” plywood at 13-5/8” x 15-3/8” – Doors
- 4 – 1×2 at 10-5/8” – Door Rails
- 4 – 1×2 at 23-5/8” – Door Stiles
- 2 – ½” plywood at 20-5/8” – Glass Door Divider
- 8 – ½” plywood at 4-9/16” – Glass Door Divider
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Edge banding will be applied to all exposed edges of plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the bottom and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the sides. Position the sides on the bottom so that they are ¾” in from each side, and ¾” away from the front and back edges. Secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back and drill pocket holes in all four edges. Position the back between the side pieces so that the outside face is flush with the back edge of the sides. Secure to the sides using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in each end, as well as the back edge. Position as shown in the drawing then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each end, as well as the back edge. Position as shown in the drawing then secure using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws with ¾” overlapping on all sides.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes and the false drawer fronts. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges of the bottom, as well as each end of the sides. Assemble the drawer as shown using glue and 1” pocket hole screws. Position the false drawer fronts as shown then secure using glue and ½” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the doors. The false drawer fronts will be positioned so they overhang the top and bottom of the door by about 1/16”. Secure using glue and ½” brad nails. Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Cut the pieces for the glass door frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the ¾” rails locating the holes so that the router bit will not interfere with the screws. Secure the rails to the stiles using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Using the router and the rabbeting bit, cut a rabbet on the inside of the frame for the glass. Use a hammer and a chisel to square the corners.
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the divider pieces. Secure the dividers to the frame so that the outside face is flush with the outside face of the frame (the glass will rest on top of the dividers) using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.
Install the hinges according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Secure the glass using a bead of silicone caulk on the inside of the rabbet.
Install all of the cabinet pulls and handles as desired.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
