Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build a West Elm Inspired Patchwork Secretary Desk! I absolutely love the patchwork pieces from West Elm, so this is heavily inspired by that…allegedly…
Stay tuned because later we will be back with a fun giveaway and a little resolution inspiration!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$100-$150
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit for Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- 3 sheets of ¾” plywood
- Scrap of 2×2 measuring approximately 18”
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 3 sets of Ball bearing drawer slides(like these)
- 2 sets of roller drawer slides (like these)
- 2 sets of hinges
- One set of drop-down front supports (like these)
- Edge banding for plywood, optional
- 5 cabinet pulls
- ne magnetic catch
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 4” – Legs
- 2 – 1×2 at 15” – Base Frame
- 2 – 1×2 at 44” – Base Frame
- 3 – 1×2 at 16-1/2” – Base Frame Supports
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 47” – Top & Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 45” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 45” x 45-1/2” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 45” – Center Divider
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 24-3/4” – Drawer Dividers
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 24-3/4” – Shelf
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 20” – Fixed Shelves
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 19” – Slide-Out Shelves
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 16” x 22-1/4” – Drawer Bottoms
- 6 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 16” – Drawer Sides
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 23-3/4” – Drawer Backs
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 5-3/4” x 24-1/2” – Small Drawer Fronts
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 9-3/4” x 24-1/2” – Large Drawer Front
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20-1/2” x 24-1/2” – Desk Top
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 19-3/4” x 44-3/4” – Door
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the base frame. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of each piece except for the legs. Assemble the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Secure to the base frame using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the top into the frame.
Cut the pieces for the sides. Drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Secure to the sides and bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the center divider. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes previously drilled in the sides, divider, and back.
Cut the piece for the drawer dividers. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the shelf. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the fixed shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end as well as one long edge. Position as shown then secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the pull-out shelves. These shelves will use the roller drawer slides in order to make them moveable. The position is up to you… The upper pull-out shelf can be used for a printer so the height of the printer will have to measured before the shelf can be installed. Mark the position and install the slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For an easy tutorial, click here. Make any necessary adjustments.
Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The fronts will overlap the drawer boxes by 3/8”. Install the ball-bearing slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer fronts in the opening.
Cut the pieces for the doors. Install the hinges on the larger door, then secure the hinges to the cabinet. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening.
Install the hinges on the bottom of the door used as the desktop. Install the drop down supports according to the manufacturer’s instructions and make any necessary adjustments. Install the magnetic catch at the top of the opening to keep the door closed when not in use. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door in the opening.
Install the cabinet pulls.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
