Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build Pottery Barn Inspired Modular Bar Components – Grid Base
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$50-$75
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Countersink Bit
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- One full sheet of ¾” plywood
- One full sheet of ½” plywood
- Piece of 3-1/2” trim at 18”
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1” screws
- Edge banding for the plywood, optional
- One set of 10” drawer slides
- 2 – drawer pulls
- 2 – 1” x 1” x 1/8” angle at 11”
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 35-1/4” – Side Frames
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 7-3/4” – Side Frames
- 2 – ½” plywood at 7-3/4” x 29-1/4” – Side Panels
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/2” x 35-1/4” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 3” x 16-1/2” – Kick Plate
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 1-1/2” x 16-1/2” – Stretcher
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 16-1/2” – Upper Shelf & Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 18” – Top
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 10-1/2” x 14”- Drawer Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 10-1/2” – Drawer Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 2-1/2” x 15-1/2” – Drawer Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 3-15/16” x 16-1/4” – Drawer Front
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 12” x 16-1/4” – Pullout
- 1 – 3-1/2” piece of trim at 18” – Trim
- 3 – ½” plywood at 12” x 25” – Grid
- 5 – ½” plywood at 12” x 16-1/2” – Grid
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes at each end of the shorter pieces.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in all four edges.
Attach the shorter side frame pieces to the side panels using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel s should be flush with the back face of the frame pieces.
Attach the side panel assemblies to the longer frame pieces using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the side edges, as well as the top edge. Attach to the side frames using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the kick plate and the stretcher. Drill pocket holes in each end of each piece. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the upper shelf & bottom. Drill pocket holes on the side edges, as well as the back edge. Attach to the side frames and the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. The front edge will overlap by 1”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws through the holes in the top edge of the back and side panels.
Attach the angle inside above the upper shelf as shown using countersunk screws.
Cut the piece for the pullout. The pullout will rest on the metal angles.
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces as well as all four edges of the bottom. Attach the sides to the bottom using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the back using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Position the drawer assembly to the front as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Make any necessary adjustments. The drawer should be positioned so that there is a 1/8” gap around all sides of the front.
Cut the piece for the trim. Attach to the lower front using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the grid. Use a jigsaw to cut the notches as shown. Assemble and insert into the cabinet, then attach using 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the grid pieces.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
