A comletely unique piece, this build is sure to add not only visual interest to your home, but a bit of seating and storage as well!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$50-$75
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- 1 – 1×2 at 4’
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×6 at 6’
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 4’
- Half sheet of ¾” plywood
- Quarter sheet of ¼” plywood
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- 1 pair 16” drawer slides
- 1 – drawer handle or knob
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 1 – 2×2 at 33-1/4” – Back Leg
- 3 – 2×2 at 17-1/4” – Front & Back Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 35” – Front & Back Aprons
- 2 – 1×3 at 17” – Sides
- 2 – 1×3 at 18” – Seat Supports
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 20” x 38” – Seat
- 2 – 1×2 at 15-1/4” – Back Frame
- 1 – 2×2 at 17-1/2” – Upper Back Frame
- 1 – 2×2 at 21” – Upper Back Frame
- 2 – 1×4 at 17-1/2” – Slats
- 2 – 1×4 at 21” – Slats
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 8-1/4” x 18-1/2” – Drawer Sides
- 1 – 1×2 at 12-1/4” – Front Apron
- 1 – ¼” lauan or hardboard at 8-1/4” x 13-3/4” – Back
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 14-3/4” x 19-1/4” – Top
- 2 – 1×6 at 11-1/4” – Drawer Box
- 2 – 1×6 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Box
- 1 – ¼” lauan or hardboard at 11-1/4” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Box Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 7” x 13-3/4” – Drawer Front
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs and the front and back aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the apron pieces. Attach the aprons to the front and back legs as shown using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The aprons should be set ¼” back from the front face of the legs.
Cut the pieces for the sides and seat supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of these pieces. Attach using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The side pieces should be set ¼” back from the side face of the legs. The supports will be located at the dimensions shown.
Cut the piece for the seat. Cut a 1-1/2” x 1-1/2” notch out of the upper left corner for the longer back leg. Attach the seat to the frame using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top of the seat into the frame.
Cut the pieces for the back frame. Drill pocket holes in one end of each of these pieces. Attach to the seat with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The front frame piece should be located ¼” back from the front of the seat – see the drawing.
Cut the pieces for the upper back frame. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach the pieces to the legs and frame pieces as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws locating the pocket holes down toward the seat.
Cut the pieces for the slats. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Position the slats at the spacing shown. Attach to the frame using glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer sides. Drill pocket holes in one long end as shown and attach to the seat at the spacing indicated using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The piece at the outer edge of the seat should be located ½” from the edge of the seat. Both pieces will be located 1-1/2” from the front edge of the seat and ¼” from the back.
Cut the pieces for the drawer apron. Drill pocket holes in each end and secure to the drawer sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back and attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the top. The front will overlap by ¾” and the sides will overlap by ½”. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and apron.
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Drill pocket holes in each end of the side pieces and assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom and attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Cut the piece for the drawer front. Drill the holes for the handle or knob location. Position the drawer front so that there is at least a 1/8” gap between the piece and the seat, then drill temporary screws through the holes for the handle. Open the drawer and secure the front to the drawer box from the inside. Remove the temporary screws from the holes in the front, and finish drilling for the handle or knob.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
