Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$50-$75
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer
- Brad nailer
- Chisel
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 4’
- 1 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×6 at 8’
- 1 – 1×6 at 6’
- Scrap piece of ¼” lauan or hardboard at 13-1/4” x 22”
- Quarter sheet of ¾” plywood
- Mirror cut to fit after frame is constructed.
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1 set of 12” drawer slides
- 1 – Drawer Handle or knob
- Edge banding for the plywood, optional
- Router with Rabbeting Bit
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 29-1/4” – Legs
- 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 5-1/4” wide) at 12” – Side Aprons
- 1 – 1×6 (ripped to 5-1/4” wide) at 28-1/2” – Back Apron
- 1 – 1×2 at 28-1/2” – Front Apron
- 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 3-3/4” wide) at 3” – Drawer Fillers
- 2 – 1×2 at 13-1/2” – Drawer Slide Supports
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 18” x 31-1/2” – Top
- 2 – 1×6 (ripped to 3-5/8” wide) at 22-1/4” – Drawer Front
- 2 – 1×4 (ripped to 3” wide) at 11-3/4” – Drawer Box Sides
- 2 – 1×4 (ripped to 3” wide) at 22” – Drawer Box Front & Back
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 13-1/4” x 22” – Drawer Bottom
- 2 – 1×3 at 40” – Mirror Frame Sides
- 1 – 1×3 at 26-1/2” – Mirror Frame Bottom
- 1 – 1×6 (ripped to 5” wide) x 26-1/2” – Mirror Frame Top
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs. Cut the angle with a jigsaw as shown.
Cut the pieces for the side aprons. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to legs with the face of the sides flush with the face of the legs (angle of leg facing inside) using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back apron. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to legs in the same manner as the side aprons.
Cut the piece for the front apron. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to legs with the top flush with the tops of the legs, as well as the front face flush with the front face of the legs using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the drawer fillers. Drill pocket holes in one 3” end (to attach to the top) and one 3-3/4” edge (to attach to the leg). Make sure the pocket holes on the 3-3/4” edge of the second piece are on the opposite side. There will be one left piece and one right piece. Attach to the legs and top apron using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer slide supports. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the inside of the drawer fillers, as well as the inside of the back apron using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the top. Draw the arc on the piece at the measurements shown and cut with a jigsaw. Apply edge banding if desired and attach to the vanity using glue and a brad nailer through the top into the legs and aprons.
Cut the pieces for the drawer box. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom with glue and a brad nailer. Attach the drawer slide hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The slides will need to be installed ¾” from the front edge to allow for the drawer face. Do not attach the face! Make all necessary adjustments to the slides.
Cut the piece for the drawer face. Drill the holes for the handle or knob placement. Shim in place in the opening. There will be a 1/8” gap around the top and sides, the bottom will be flush with the bottom of the drawer fillers. Drill a temporary screw through the holes into the drawer boxes. Open the drawers and secure the fronts to the boxes from the insides with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handle or knob.
Cut the frame pieces for the mirror. Cut the arc in the top frame piece. Assemble as shown with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Place the screws so the router and rabbeting bit will avoid them.
Set the router bit depth to cut a ¼” rabbet. Cut the rabbet on the inner back of the frame to allow for the mirror. Use a chisel and hammer to square the corners. Adhere the mirror using mirror adhesive or a tab framing gun. The mirror frame can be attached tot he vanity with pocket screws through the side frame as well as metal mending plates.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
