I’m really excited to post this project because I was excited to find it browsing through my latest PotteryBarn catalog! Absolutely a stunner, to be sure!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- 4 sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 sheet of ½” plywood
- 2 sheets of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
- 5 – 1×2 at 8’
- 2 – 1×3 at 8’
- 2 – 1×4 at 8’
- 1 – 1×4 at 6’
- 1 – 1×6 at 4’
- 1 – 1×8 at 4’
- 2 – 8’ casing
- 2 – 8’ baseboard
- 1” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Sliding Door Hardware – Rockler part no. 38905
- Edge banding for plywood, if desired
- Countersink bit for drill
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – 1×3 at 19” – Side Frames
- 2 – 1×6 at 19” – Side Frames
- 2 – 1×8 at 19” (ripped to 6-1/2” wide) – Side Frame
- 2 – 1×3 at 65-1/4” – Side Frames
- 2 – ½” plywood at 19” x 24-7/8” – Side Frame Panels
- 2 – ½” plywood at 19” x 26-3/8” – Side Frame Panels
- 2 – 1×2 at 22-1/2” – Bottom Shelf Support
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 24” x 91-1/2” – Bottom
- 2 – 1×4 at 91-1/2” (ripped to 3-1/4” wide) – Bottom Supports
- 3 – 1×4 at 22-1/2” (ripped to 3-1/4” wide) – Bottom Supports
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/4” x 61-1/4” – Dividers
- 18 – 1×2 at 23-1/4” – Side & Center Shelf Supports
- 6 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/4” x 23-1/2” – Side Shelves
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 9-1/4” x 23-1/4” – Lower Dividers
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 23-1/4” x 43” – Center Shelves
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 8” x 23-1/4” – Upper Divider
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 25-1/4” x 95” – Top
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 33” x 93” – Back
- 2 – Casing & Baseboard Trim at 95” – Upper & Lower Trim
- 2 – Casing Trim at 25-1/4” – Upper Trim
- 2 – Baseboard Trim at 25” –Lower Trim
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the side frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Attach the bottom supports using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws.
Cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in the side panels as shown. Insert into the frames and secure using glue and 1” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Cut a 1/8” kerf (check manufacturer’s instructions on the door hardware to be sure) across the length approximately ¾” from the front edge. Secure the bottom to the side panels as shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws through the shelf into the supports.
Cut the pieces for the bottom supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces as well as one long edge of each piece. Attach to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the dividers. Drill pocket holes in one shorter end only and secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the side shelf supports. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws locating them ¾” back from the front edge.
Cut the pieces for the side shelves. Secure to the supports using glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws through the shelves into the supports.
Cut the pieces for the center shelf supports. Attach to the cabinet at the spacing shown using glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws locating them ¾” back from the front edge.
Cut the piece for the lower divider. Drill pocket holes in one long edge only and secure to the bottom as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws locating the divider ¾” back from the front edge.
Cut the piece for the lower shelf. Secure to the supports using 1-1/4” countersunk screws through the shelf into the supports as well as into the divider.
Attach the next divider and shelf in the same manner as Step 6. Also attach the upper shelf to the shelf supports.
Cut the piece for the upper divider and attach in the same manner as the other dividers.
Cut the piece for the top. Cut a 1/8” kerf (check manufacturer’s instructions on the door hardware to be sure) across the length approximately 1-1/4” from the front edge. The top willoverlap by 1-1/4″ in the front and 3/4″ on the sides. Attach with glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails through the top into the dividers and sides.
Cut the pieces for the back. Attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. The measurements for the pieces can be adjusted so that the seam falls behind a shelf.
Cut the pieces for the doors. Assemble in the same manner as the side frames. Attach the door sliding hardware according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Cut the pieces for the casing and baseboard trim. Attach the sides first, then the front. Place the upper trim as close to the front edge as possible to allow for the doors to slide.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
