An amazing storage piece with a fold down top that allows for the perfect hide away work surface!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$150-$200
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’
- 1 – 1×4 at 4’
- 3 full sheets of ¾” plywood
- 1 full sheet of ¼” plywood
- 1 half sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- 3 sets of 15” drawer slides
- 8 – Drawer Handles or knobs
- 2 – Drop Front Supports (go here )
- 1 Continuous Hinge for Work Surface
- Edge banding for the plywood, optional
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 51-3/4” – Sides
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 16-1/4” x 30-1/2” – Shelves
- 2 – 1×2 at 30-1/2” – Back Support & Lower Trim
- 1 – 1×4 at 30-1/2” – Front Support
- 1 – ¼” plywood at 32” x 51-3/4” – Back
- 3 – 1×4 at 7-1/2” – Inner Drawer Cubby Sides & Center
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/2 x 30-1/2” – Inner Drawer Cubby Top & Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/4” x 33-1/2” – Top
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 6” – Cubby Drawer Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 6” x 11” – Cubby Drawer Bottom
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 6” x 13-3/4” – Cubby Drawer Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 12-1/2” – Cubby Drawer Front & Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 3-1/4” x 15-1/4” – Cubby Drawer Front & Back
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 13-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Sides
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 13-1/2” – Larger Drawer Box Sides
- 4 – ¾” plywood at 5-1/2” x 29-1/2” – Smaller Drawer Box Front & Back
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 29-1/2” – Larger Drawer Box Front & Back
- 3 – ¼” plywood at 15” x 29-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
- 1 – 1×3 at 33-1/2” – Lower Trim Front
- 2 – 1×3 at 16-1/2” – Lower Trim Sides
- 1 – Casing at 32-3/4” – Upper Front Trim
- 2 – Casing at 16-1/2” – Upper Side Trim
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 15-1/2” x 30-1/4” – Work Surface Front
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 12-1/2” – Work Surface Trim Stiles
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 30-1/4” – Work Surface Trim Rails
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 7-1/4” x 30-1/4” – Smaller Drawer Fronts
- 4 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 4-1/4” – Smaller Drawer Trim Stiles
- 4 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 30-1/4” – Smaller Drawer Trim Rails
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 11-3/4” x 30-1/4” – Larger Drawer Front
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 8-1/2” – Larger Drawer Front Trim Stiles
- 2 – ¼” plywood at 1-1/2” x 30-1/4” – Larger Drawer Front Trim
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the sides and shelves. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the shorter ends of the shelves. Secure to sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws at the spacing indicated.
Cut the pieces for the supports. Drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces and attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. The 1×4 piece will go in the front while the 1×2 piece will be in the back.
Cut the piece for the lower trim support and attach to the cabinet under the lowest shelf in the same manner as the other supports.
Cut the piece for the back and secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the inner cubby. Attach the sides to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” countersunk screws flush with the back at the spacing indicated.
Attach the bottom cubby piece first using glue and brad nails through the bottom into the side pieces. Attach the center support at the spacing indicated with brad nails through the bottom into the support. Fasten the top piece in place using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and center support.
Cut the pieces for the cubby drawers. Attach the sides to the bottom as shown in the drawing with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the sides into the bottom. Attach the front and back pieces in the same manner with brad nails through the pieces into the sides and bottom.
Cut the pieces for the work surface and the trim. Fasten the trim to the work surface front with glue and clamp until dry. Attach the continuous hinge to the work surface, then to the shelf. There will be an approximate 1/8” gap around all sides of the work surface in the opening. Attach the drop front supports according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Cut the piece for the top. Fasten to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides, front support, and back support. The top will hang over the sides and front by ¾”.
Cut the pieces for the lower trim. Cut the notch as shown using a jigsaw. Attach the side trim first using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Attach the front piece with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the front into the lower support.
Cut the casing pieces for the top side trim with a 45 deg. miter on the front edge. Attach to the sides of the cabinet under the top with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails. Measure for the front trim and cut this piece with a 45 deg. miter on each end. Fasten to the cabinet in the same manner.
Cut the pieces for the other drawer boxes. Drill pocket holes in the ends of the side pieces and assemble as shown in the drawing using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the bottoms and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Attach the drawer slides to the drawers and cabinet following the manufacturer’s instructions. The slides will need to be positioned 1” from the front edge of the cabinet. Do not attach the drawer fronts!
Cut the pieces and trim for the drawer fronts. These will be assembled in the same manner as the work surface. After assembly, drill holes for the knobs or handles. Shim the drawer fronts in place (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and drill screws through the holes for the knobs into the drawer boxes. Open the drawers, and secure the fronts to the boxes using countersunk 1-1/4” screws from the inside. Remove the screws from the knob holes and finish drilling out the holes.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
