All I have to say is *Swoon*… this piece is fab! The inspiration piece has a built in power strip. A hole can be bored into the back and a power strip can be mounted inside…
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$50-$75
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- Full sheet of ¾” plywood
- Half sheet of ½” plywood
- Half sheet of ¼” lauan or plywood
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1” pocket hole screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- 5/8” brad nails
- 2 sets of 16” drawer slides
- 2 sets of hinges
- 18 cup pulls, handles, or drawer knobs
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 24-1/4” – Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-1/2” x 20” – Bottom
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 16-3/4” x 20” – Shelves
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 17-1/4” – Divider
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 17-3/4” x 21-1/2” – Top
- 2 – ½” plywood at 4-5/8” x 9-3/8” – Drawer Fronts
- 1 – ½” plywood at 9-3/8” x 17” – Door
- 1 – ½” plywood at 10-1/4” x 17” – Door
- 4 – ½” plywood at 4” x 8-5/8” – Drawer Boxes
- 4 – ½” plywood at 4” x 15” – Drawer Boxes
- 1 – ¼” lauan or plywood at 21-1/2” x 24-1/2” – Back
- 2 – ¼” lauan or plywood at 8-5/8” x 16” – Drawer Bottoms
- 14 – ¼” lauan or plywood at 2-1/4” x 9-3/8” – Drawer Pieces
- 4 – ¼” lauan or plywood at 2-1/2” x 9-3/8” – Drawer Pieces
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the sides. Mark the curve at the bottom using the measurements in the drawing and cut out with a jigsaw.
Cut the piece for the bottom. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the sides with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws at the height indicated – 1-1/4” up from the bottom.
Cut the pieces for the shelves. Drill pocket holes in each end. The shelves will be located ¾” from the front edge and flush with the back. Secure to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the divider and drill pocket holes in one long end only. The divider will overlap the shelf by ½” and be flush with the back. Attach to cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the piece for the back and attach with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the piece for the top and secure to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the sides and divider.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ½” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the longer boards. Assemble as shown. Attach the bottom with glue and brad nails. Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions locating them ¾” from the front edge of the cabinet.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts and attach to the drawer boxes using glue and brad nails. The fronts will be located ¼” back from the front edge.
Cut the pieces for the doors. One door will be larger than the other to offset the drawer divider. The doors will be located ¼” from the front edge and there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the door, including the center. They will also overlap the upper shelf by 5/8” to allow for an 1/8” gap between the drawer and the top of the door. (See drawing)
Cut the smaller pieces for the “drawers”. Attach to the drawer fronts and doors with glue and 5/8” brad nails. There will be a 1/8” gap between pieces. The pieces for the drawers will be flush with the top and with the bottom allowing for a 1/8” gap in between. The pieces for the doors will be located in the same way, with two of the larger pieces (2-1/2”) at the bottom of each door.
Drill the holes for the handles and install.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
