With several options for the top how can you go wrong? Laminate is available in all sorts of colors and patterns, plus it’s a snap to cut and use! Aside from the beauty the bonus here is that there are drawers that open on both sides! Totally convenient… yahoo…
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$50-$75
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- 2 – 4×4 at 6’
- 4 – 2×4 at 8’
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 2×2 at 4’
- 3 – 1×6 at 8’
- 4 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 4’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1/4 sheet of ¼” lauan or hardboard
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 2-1/2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” screws
- 2-1/2” screws
- Small nails or 1-1/4” brads
- 4 sets of 12” drawer slides
- 4 – Locking Casters
- 4 – Drawer Handles or knobs
- Edge banding for the plywood or Laminate for top
- Contact Cement (if using laminate)
- Laminate Cutter
- Router with flush Trim Bit
- Countersink bit for Drill
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 4×4 at 32” – Legs
- 4 – 2×4 at 23” – Side Frames
- 2 – 23” x 28-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Side Panels
- 4 – 2×2 at 34” – X Braces
- 6 – 2×4 at 45” – Lower Stretchers , Middle Aprons & Upper Aprons
- 2 – 2×2 at 17” – Lower Divider Front
- 2 – 17” x 27” of ¾” plywood – Lower Dividers
- 14 – 1×3 at 30” – Slats
- 4 – 1×2 at 28-1/2” – Shelf Supports
- 2 – 21-3/4” x 28-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Shelves
- 4 – 1×2 at 21-3/4” – Shelf Trim
- 2 – 2×2 at 6-1/2” – Drawer Divider
- 1 – 2×2 at 27” – Drawer Divider
- 2 – 1×2 at 53-1/2” – Upper Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 30” – Upper Trim
- 8 – 1×6 at 20-3/4” – Drawer Boxes
- 8 – 1×6 at 10-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 4 – 12” x 20-3/4” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Drawer Bottoms
- 4 – 6-1/4” x 21-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Drawer Fronts
- 1 – 31-1/2” x 53-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Top
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the legs and the sides. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each of the 2×4 ends. Secure the 2×4 pieces to the legs with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the X-braces. An easy way to do this would be to cut the four 2×2 pieces at 34” long. Cut two of the pieces in half and drill pocket holes (for 1-1/2” material) in one end. Secure at the centers of the 34” pieces with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Clamp the pieces in place on the side frames and from the inside, draw lines to make the angled cuts at the corners of the braces. Drill pocket holes at the ends and secure to the side frame with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Make sure the fronts of the braces are flush with the faces of the side frames.
Cut the plywood pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes on three sides as indicated. Secure to the inside of the frame with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. Make sure the back of the panel is flush with the back of the side frames.
Cut the pieces for the lower stretchers. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure to the side assemblies with glue and 2-1/2” screws locating them 2” up from the bottom of the legs.
Cut the 2×2 pieces for the lower dividers. Drill pocket holes at one end and secure in the center of the lower stretchers with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the plywood pieces for the lower divider. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each of the 17” ends on one piece only. Secure to the 2×2 divider pieces with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws. The pocket holes should face to the inside and the face of the divider is flush with the side of the 2×2 divider.
Secure the second piece of plywood to the first piece, in between the 2x2s with glue and brad nails.
Cut the 1×3 pieces for the slats. Secure to the lower stretchers, evenly spaced, with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the 1×2 pieces for the shelf supports. Secure to the sides and the divider at the spacing indicated with countersunk 1-1/4” screws. Each support should be located ¾” back from the face of each leg to allow for the shelf trim.
Cut the pieces for the shelves and attach to the supports with glue and countersunk 1-1/4” screws.
Cut the 1×2 pieces for the shelf trim and secure to the shelves with glue and brad nails.
Cut the 2×4 pieces for the middle aprons and the upper aprons. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in the ends of each piece. Attach the middle apron to the sides as indicated in the drawings with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws, and also use a couple of countersunk 2-1/2” screws in the center. Attach the upper apron pieces as indicated in the drawings with glue and 2-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer divider. Drill pocket holes in each end of the three pieces. In the shorter pieces, the top of the pocket holes themselves may overlap each other but it will not affect the screws and they will be completely hidden. Secure as indicated in the drawings with glue and 1-1/2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the 1×2 pieces for the upper trim. Attach the sides first with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails, then attach the front and back pieces.
Cut the piece for the top. If using edge banding, apply to the edges and secure to the cabinet with glue and brad nails through the top into the aprons.
If using laminate, use a laminate cutter and cut strips for the edges of the top. The strips can be a little wider than the edges because the excess will be trimmed away with the router. Apply contact cement to the edges following the manufacturer’s instructions and apply the laminate. Use care because once it makes contact, it is stuck forever!! Using a router with a flush trim bit trim away the excess laminate. Secure the top to the cabinet with glue and brad nails through the top into the aprons.
Cut the piece of laminate for the top. Use masking tape on the edges where the strips were applied (to keep the contact cement off and to keep it from chipping when using the router) and adhere the laminate to the top. Use the router again to cut away the excess laminate.
Attach the casters according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Attach the bottom with glue and brad nails. Do not attach the drawer faces until the drawer boxes have been installed and adjusted! Install the drawer slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions placing them ¾” back from the opening face to allow for the fronts. Make any adjustments necessary.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. Drill the holes for the handle or knob placement. Shim in place in the opening (there will be a 1/8” gap around all sides) and drill a temporary screw through the holes into the drawer boxes. Open the drawers and secure the fronts to the boxes from the insides with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handle or knob
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
