And so, here we go again with bed number 2 for my Monster Mash boy! But you know what… that's perfectly alright because both are handmade and I can totally afford handmade! Beds are such an easy build too, it's almost as easy as a table only it sure packs a lot of bang for your buck, am I right? Beds seem to get those coveted oh's and ah's we all love to hear after spending countless minutes building something. Yep, I said minutes… that's about how long this bed took to build. Super Simple… best. kind. of. build. I will be posting plans for this bed in other sizes, so stay tuned if you are interested in those!
If you can't tell, that is my boy and his Jingle Dog giving me a round of applause… ha, he's such a funny little guy! He was also sure to tell me he was so proud of me for building so hard on his room and our house (which I definitely didn't build, but hey if the shoe fits… am I right?)
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$25-$50
- Safety Gear
- Tape Measure
- Drill
- Kreg Jig – optional and not neccessary if you want your hardware to show
- Saw
- 1 – 1×4 at 10' (have them cut this in half for you before you leave, it will transport more easily)
- 3 – 1×4 at 8'
- 2″ wood screws
- **1 1/4″ pocket hole screws – only if you are using a Kreg Jig for the slats
- 3/4″ self tapping screws
- 2 – 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ 90 degree metal edging at 4'
- 2 – 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ 90 degree metal edging at 2'
- 4 – 4″ locking swivel casters
- 2 – 1×4 at 29 1/2″ Head and Foot
- 2 – 1×4 at 53″ Sides
- 7 – 1×4 at 28″ Slats
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build your box. I chose to use wood screws and countersink because I felt like it added to the industrial feel this bed is going for.
Add the Bed Slats: you can attach using 2″ wood screws and glue by countersinking them (you can see an example of this below), or you can use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4″ stock and your 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws and glue. They should be spaced around 5″ apart or so. Be sure to place the top most and bottom most slat right up against the Head and Foot Board of this bed so you can easily attach the casters later.
Attach the Metal Edging (I have no idea what this stuff is actually called, but you can find it at your local home improvement store and it's L shaped and 90 degrees) using your 3/4″ self tapping screws. You won't be able to countersink and predrill if you are screwing in tight and close to the edge of one of the holes. Your goal is to alternated which side of the hole you screw into and you are trying to overlap the screw head to it holds the edging in place. You can see a picture of this below. I have used 4 screws on the longer pieces and 3 on the shorter and alternated which side of the hole the screw is placed on so your edging can't slide in one direction or the other.
Center each metal piece on it's respective side.
Attach the Casters: use the same 3/4″ self tapping scrws and overlap your screw heads to the caster plate in an alternating pattern just as you did in the previous step. They should sit in each corner. Mine required fastening in a horizontal manner to fit the caster plate properly, but since the casters swivel this isn't important.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
