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Another piece for the Kenwood Collection… This piece would grow with your child. Just remove the topper and it could be storage for clothes or toys! It would be a good idea to sand each piece before assembly. This will make the finishing so much easier!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$75-$100
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- 1 – 1×4 at 6’
- 1 – 1×4 at 8’
- 15 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 2 – 1×8 at 6’
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
- 1/2 sheet of ¼” lauan, plywood or hardboardÂ
- 1¼” pocket hole screws
- 1¼” screws
- Small nails or 1” brads
- 1” angle brackets (6) with screws
- 2 – Strap Hinges
- 4 – Drawer Pulls
- 2 – narrow mending plates (to attach changing box to top)
- 2 – sets of 14” drawer slides
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
-  2 – 1×2 at 40” – Front & Back Frames
- 2 – 1×3 at 40” – Front & Back Frames
- 4 – 1×3 at 34-1/2” – Front & Back Frames
- 32 – 1×3 at 27-1/2” – Back Planks
- 2 – 1×2 at 15” – Side Frames
- 2 – 1×3 at 15”- Side Frames
- 4 – 1×3 at 34-1/4” – Side Frames
- 12 – 1×3 at 27-1/2” – Side Panels
- 2 – 1×2 at 40” – Drawer Frame
- 1 – 1×2 at 8” – Drawer Frame
- 3 – 2×2 at 18” – Drawer Slide Support
- 2 – 18” x 43-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Bottom & Shelf
- 1 – 19-3/4” x 45-1/2” of ¾” plywood – Top
- 2 – 1×2 at 18” – Shelf Supports
- 4-1×8 at 18-1/4” – Drawer Boxes
- 4 – 1×8 at 14-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 2 – 16” x 18-1/4” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – 7-3/4” x 19” of ¾” plywood – Drawer Fronts
- 4 – 1×3 at 15” – Door Frames
- 2 – 1×3 at 16-1/4” – Door Frames
- 2 – 1×3** at 16-1/4” (ripped to 2-3/8” wide) – Door Frames
- 12 – 1×3 at 11-1/4” – Door Panels
- 2 – 1×4 at 45” – Topper Frame
- 2 – 1×4 at 18” – Topper Frame
- 1 – 18” x 45” of ¼” lauan or hardboard – Topper Bottom
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project.
If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and
Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
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Cut the pieces as indicated for the Front and Back Frames. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material. Drill holes and assemble with glue and 1-1/4” screws.Â
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 Cut the Back Panel pieces as indicated for the back frames. Assemble with glue and screws.
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 Cut the pieces as indicated for the Side Frames. Assemble with glue and screws, then add the Side Panel Pieces.
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 Attach the Front and Back Frames to the Sides through the front of the frames into the sides using glue and a brad nailer. Fill the nail holes.
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 Cut the plywood pieces for the Bottom and the Shelf. After making sure the cabinet is square, attach the bottom with 1-1/4” screws. The top face of the bottom should be level with the top of the front, side and back frames.
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Cut the pieces for the Shelf Support and attach them with the spacing indicated. Attach the Shelf to the supports with 1-1/4” screws through the top of the shelf into the support.
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Cut the pieces for the Drawer Frame. Attach to front as indicated.
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Cut the piece for the top. The top will overlap the sides and the front by ¼”. Install the angle brackets to the inside, then secure the top.
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Cut the 2×2 pieces for the Drawer Slide Supports and install as indicated.
Cut the pieces for the Drawer Boxes from the 1×8 material. Construct the boxes and attach the bottoms with glue and a brad nailer. Attach the drawer slide hardware to the drawer boxes and to the supports inside the cabinet setting it ¾” back from the edge of the drawer frame to allow for the drawer front. Do not attach the drawer fronts until the drawers have been installed and any necessary adjustments have been made.
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Cut the pieces for the Drawer Fronts. Drill the holes through the piece for the handle. Insert the face into the opening and shim in place. There will be a 1/8” gap around all sides of the drawer front in the opening. Insert screws through the holes for the handle into the boxes to temporarily attach the face to the drawer. Open the drawer and attach the drawer front to the front of the box from the inside. Remove the temporary screws through the holes on the front and finish drilling the holes for the handle.
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Cut the pieces for the Door Frames and assemble with 1-1/4” screws and glue. Insert the center panels. Lay the doors out, face up, with the 2-3/8” frame pieces in the center. Attach the hinges to the outside of the door frames. Insert the door into the opening and shim in place. There will be an 1/8” gap around all sides except the center. If a gap is desired between the doors, lessen the gap between the sides of the door and the sides of the front frame. See Drawing.
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Cut the pieces for the Topper. Assemble with glue and 1-1/4” screws. Attach the bottom with glue and a brad nailer. If desired, self-stick felt pads can be placed on the bottom to prevent marring on the top. Attach the topper to the cabinet by using small mending plates attached to the back of the topper as well as the back of the cabinet.
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability.
If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
