Another piece for the Kenwood Collection… This would be a great addition to a family room or playroom, also!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$25-$50
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Hammer or Brad nailer
- 12 – 1×4 at 6’
- 3 – 1×3 at 6’**
- 4 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 – 1×2 at 6’
- 1 sheet of ¾” plywood
** A sheet of beadboard could be substituted if you didn’t want to assemble all of those 1x3s for the planked look! The beadboard is approx. ½” thick so adjust the depth of the top accordingly.
- 1¼” pocket hole screws
- ¾ ” screws
- Small nails or 1” brads
- 1” angle brackets (6)
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 1×2 at 11”- Side Frame
- 4 – 1×2 at 49¼”- Side Frame
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 11” x 43¼”- Sides
- 12 – 1×4 at 46¼”- Back**
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 13 ”x 42”, Shelves & Bottom
- 1 – 1×2 at 38½” – Upper Front Frame
- 1 – 1×3 at 38½” – Lower Front Frame
- 1 – 1×3 at 49¼” – Front Frame Sides
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 15¼”x44” – Top
** If using beadboard for back, cut to 43½” x 46¼”
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut the pieces for the Side Frame and Sides. With the Kreg jig set for ¾” material, drill pocket holes in each end of the upper and lower frame pieces, as well as the side pieces, as indicated. Assemble with glue and screws.
If you are going to assemble 1x4s for the back, cut all pieces to length, drill pocket holes, and assemble. The pocket holes do not have to be perfectly lined up. Attach to the inside of the side frames with screws. If you are using beadboard, cut the piece to the size indicated. Attach to the back of the side frames with glue and small nails or a brad nailer.
Cut the pieces for the shelves and bottom. Drill pocket holes in each end of the shelves and bottom. Attach the bottom and check cabinet for square before installing the shelves. Attach the shelves with the spacing indicated.
Cut the pieces for the Face Frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the upper frame piece and the lower frame piece. Attach to cabinet front using glue and small brads or a brad nailer.
Install 1” angle brackets to inside of cabinet for the top – One on each side, and two on the front and back. Cut the piece for the top. The top will overlap the front frame and sides by ¼”. Screw through the hole in the brackets into the underside of the top.
If painting, I like to sand the entire piece with 100 grit, then 220 grit, prime with any latex primer, sand again with 220 grit, and paint. Sanding the primer gives an extra-smooth finish! Finish with water-based polyurethane for added durability. If staining, sand the entire piece with 60 grit, then 100 grit, then 220 grit. Stain as desired. For the finish, use wipe-on poly or brush-on poly. Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post PLEASE STUMBLE IT! Definitely comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date! You can now also: Follow my blog with blog lovin!
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
