Fasten your frame together using Pocket Hole Screws and glue. Use 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws and your kreg jig set for 1 1/2″ stock.

Once your Frame has been constructed you can fill the seams with wood filler to make this appear to be one solid piece. Overfill and then sand down

Now you will begin your “reclaiming” and “weathering” process. This is your moment to get your anger and frustration out. Have fun, but be safe. I want you to hammer and chisel away. Mark, dent, scrape, and bang away. Use a large nail and a hammer and literally hammer the nail at an angle to make lines as shown in the image below. I also used my sander on it's side to create a series of lines every so often to make this look saw cut or rough cut. There is no tool off limits, just be sure you DON'T MAKE THIS LOOK UNIFORM. Irregularity is the name of this game. You don't want an obvious pattern. Some people have used chains, but I never seem to have those on hand in an appropriate size or weight. **You would also do well to use your sander and severely sand the edges down so that they are almost rounded and look as though beaten down by years of rain and water, just as driftwood is generally rounded and smooth. See bottom left image below for this example. Below are some of the marks I made for my own, just know that I shot these photos after I stained and washed.

Once you have thoroughly beaten your Mirror Frame you will stain it. I feel a 2 part staining process will give you the best weathered look, but you can go with a weathered wood colored stain or a gray wash by itself and still it will be amazing. Otherwise I recommend beginning with either Red Mahogany, Mahogany, or Walnut. Do not worry about applying this well. In fact, the worse you do the better it will look! Wipe it on with a brush, lint free rag, or even a sock. Make sure you get this first color into all of the grooves and indentations in fact if you can focus on those areas it will turn out better in the end. Colors such as these are most appropriate: The colors above are by Cabot and are Mission Brown and Oak Brown.

Then once that has dried follow up with the weathered wood colored stain or your gray paint wash. Use a brush for this step and keep it light and on top. You will apply this conservatively and layer as needed…in a very sloppy manner! The messier the better and the more realistic it will look! Here are a few options for color for either stain or paint. If using paint choose a color in the greige family (gray beige) and water it down a ton. You want this to be at least 2 parts water to one part paint if you go this route. These are stains by Cabot and are Napa Vine, Sycamore, and Driftwood. Choose a semi-transparent stain. For paint color I chose Birch Bark by Deco Art and added a tiny bit of white and a drop of blue before watering it down. Allow your frame to fully dry before you continue on to the next step.

To attach your mirror you can use mirror hanging devices as seen in most standard tract home bathrooms. Those little claw feet that will screw onto the frame on both the top, bottom, and sides to keep the mirror in place. They look like the image below and can be found at any hardware store. If you don't prefer to purchase this extra material you can use heavy duty tape as instructed in the next step to secure your mirror.

Then I would recommend a layer of protective plastic or thick duct tape. I chose a plastic sheeting layer but strips of tape would also work if you happen to have that around. You want this layer to extend about 1 1/2″ beyond the edge of the mirror (and clips if you used them). If you don't care to purchase mirror hanging clips, you can also secure your mirror in place by using only thick duct tape, perhaps something like Gorilla Glue Tape.

While holding the mirror in place you will quite literally place strip after strip down the length of the mirror with 1 1/2″ overhang to allow for the next step.

Once you have taped or covered in plastic or both…you will attach your trim around the edge to secure your tape or plastic in place even further. This allows you to secure your mirror without running the risk of breaking it and gives you a bit of room to maneuver. Use the 1″ Screws. This bottom images show what this will look like: Note: I mitered my corners only to realize it really wasn't necessary, so save yourself the trouble!