I built a full-sized slipper chair, but didn’t document my upholstering process. Instead of building another full-sized chair (that I don’t need), I built one for my 18 month old! Now I’ll share the plans, so you can build one, too!
For upholstering instructions, visit my blog at ladygoats.com
Under $25
- Saw
- Jig Saw
- Drill
- Eye Protection
- Hearing Protection
- Kreg Jig – Optional
- Sander
- 1 – 2 x 3 at 8
- 1 – 2 x 2 at 8
- 1 – 1 x 3 at 8
- 1 – 3/4″ Ply or MDF at 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″ (scrap piece or small 2×2 piece) –Â Instead of the Ply or MDF, you could use the remaining 1 x 3 (cut 4 – 8″ pieces) as your seat. There will be a slight gap between boards, but as log as it’s evenly spaced and you use 2″ foam, it won’t be noticeable.
- 1 – 1″ x 12″ x 12″ foam (about $2 @ Hobby Lobby)
- 1 – 2″ x 12″ x 12″ foam (about $3 @ Hobby Lobby)
- 4 feet of fabric, at least 24″ wide.
- 1 1/2″ Screws
- 2″ Screws
- Wood Glue
- Paint or stain for the legs
- (A) 2 – 2 x 3 at 19 1/2″ (back legs)
- (B) 1 – 2 x 3 at 8″ (back, bottom apron)
- (C) 1 – 2 x 2 at 8″ (back, top apron)
- (D) 2 – 1 x 3 at 8″ (back supports)
- (E) 2 – 1 x 3 at 9 1/2″ (sides of seat)
- (F) 2 – 1 x 3 at 11″ (front & back of seat)
- (G) 2 – 2 x 2 at 5 3/4″ (front legs)
- (H) 2 – 2 x 2 at approx 7″ (seat supports)
- (I) 1 – 3/4″ Ply or MDF at 9 1/2″ x 9 1/2″Â OR 4 – 1 x 3 at 8″
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
**Â The chair is going to be assembled in two parts. The first part will be the back of the chair, and the second part will be the seat. These two parts will not be permanently attached until after they are fully upholstered.
Mark one of your back legs (A) as shown in the image below. Cut it out using either a jig saw or circular saw, and use that as your template for the other leg.
After both legs are cut, clamp together and sand them until they’re evenly matched.
Attach your top and bottom aprons (B & C boards) as shown. You can either drill through the sides of the legs, or use pocket holes.
Attach your back supports (D) as done in the previous step. Placement doesn’t have to be exact. Just eye-ball it and try to get it evenly spaced.
Build your seat. Use your (E) and (F) boards to build a box, putting the longer boards on the OUTSIDE of the shorter ones, as pictured.
You can either drill through the outside edges, or use pocket holes.
Attach your front legs. Measure 3/4″ down from the top, and screw into the seat through the legs, using 2″ wood screws.
Measuring 3/4″ down, again, place your seat supports (H) in place.
Screw using 2″ screws.
Dry fit your chair. DO NOT GLUE! Measure 4″ up the back legs, and that’s where the bottom of the seat will be. Screw into place and check for level. If everything is good here, move on to the next step.
Dry fit your chair. DO NOT GLUE! Measure 4″ up the back legs, and that’s where the bottom of the seat will be. Screw into place and check for level. If everything is good here, move on to the next step.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
