This plan is almost identical to the original, only differing in a height adjustment and storage, and this is for a Full Sized Bed. We can foray into the other sizes if enough of you are interested! Paired with the other pieces in the Vintage Fir Collection…its stunning, but it would look equally fabulous paired with many other styles of furniture as well. This bed has a fairly modern shape, but if you give it a reclaimed finish, or even painted this would pair well with delicate antiques, french country accessories and even traditional furnishings.
Showcase: Built From These Plans
- Tape Measure
- Square
- Sander
- Saw
- Drill
- **Kreg Jig – optional but will make this build much easier and with stronger joints.
- 2 – 2×12 at 6'
- 2 – 2×10 at 8'
- 2 – 2×8 at 8'
- 1 – 2×8 at 6'
- 4 – 2×4 at 8'
- 3 – 2×4 at 10'
- 9 – 1×3 at 6'
- 2 – 1×2 at 8'
- 15 – 2×4 at 8'
- 2 – 3/4″ Sheets of Plywood at 4'x8'
- 6 Drawer Pulls in style of your choice.
- **Kreg Owners – 2 1/4″ Pocket Screws and
- 1 1/4″ Pocket Screws, you will not need the 4″, 3″, or 2″ Screws listed below.
- 4″ Screws
- 3″ Screws
- 2 1/2″ Screws
- 2″ Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sandpaper
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×4 at 75 3/4″ (Sides of Base Frame)
- 2 – 2×12 at 60″ (Head and Foot of Base Frame)
- 2 – 2×8 at 75 1/2″ (Sides of Perimeter)
- 1 – 2×8 at 70″ (Foot Perimeter)
- 9 – 1×3 at 57″ (Slats)
- 2 – 1×2 at 75 3/4″ (Cleats)
- 12 – 2×4 at 70″ (Headboard)
- 4 – 2×4 at 46″ (Back Brace's)
- 4 – 3/4 Ply at 8 3/4 x 26″ (Partitions)
- 12 – 3/4″ Ply at 23 1/4 x 5″ (Drawer Sides)
- 12 – 3/4″ Ply at 5″ x 20 1/4″ (Drawer Front/Back)
- 6 – 3/4″ Ply at 22 1/2 x 26″ (Drawer Bottoms)
- 6 – 3/4″ Ply at 5″ x 26 3/4″ (Drawer Faces)
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build the Base Frame: Use your Kreg Jig at a 1 1/2″ Setting for the perimeter and a 3/4″ setting for attaching the separators to the center dividers. Use 3″ Screws and Wood Glue if you aren't working with a Kreg Jig. The dimensions and spacing are shown below.
Fasten the cleats in place using 1 1/4″ screws, then fasten the slats down every 6″ or so using 1 1/4″ screws and glue.
Attach the Bordering Platform: Use your Kreg Jig to attach them from underneath and set for 1 1/2″ Stock. If you aren't using a Kreg Jig, use 4″ Screws and Wood Glue. Leave a 5″ overhang on the sides and foot of the bed. The Side Platform Boards should be flush with the head of the beds frame.
Create the Headboard: Use 14 – 2×4's and attach them using 4 – 2×4's on the back side. Use 2 1/2″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Build the Drawers: Use your kreg Jig set at 3/4″ setting to build the casings.
Attach the Headboard to the Frame and Platform Boards. **Use 4″ Screws to attach the Headboard to the Frame AT the frame sides, so that the screws go through the head of the frame and into the side boards. ** Everywhere else you attach the headboard along the top of the frame, use 2 1/2″ Screws. or your Kreg Jig set for 1 1/2″ Stock. This headboard will be top heavy, so it should sit against a wall for extra support.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
