The left and right components for this cubby organizer series work well together, alone, or alongside the center unit (plans found here). All 3 work beautifully in conjunction with the remainder of the Craft Collection, and of course, just like the Center Cubby Unit, the left and right are sized for the Tall and Small Cubby Drawers (plans found here).
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
- Drill or Brad Nailer (some staple guns have a brad nailer capability…mine does) or Hammer
- Saw – unless your local lumber supply will make cuts for you.
- 1/4 sheet of 1/2″ Plywood, MDF or coated Particle board…something hard and stainable or paintable (depending on your finishing preference).
**1/4 sheet of 3/4″ Plywood, MDF, or coated Particle board – in the original, they use 3/4″ stock on the bottom, if you prefer you can use 1/2″ for this and spare yourself the purchase of this piece OR you can also increase to a 1×8 and increase the depth of each vertical panel by 1/2″. If you go this route, you will have some left over, use it for the center unit (plans found here).
- Iron on Edge Banding if you might like that.
- 1″ Screws or Brad Nails
- 1 1/4″ Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
Cut list is for one unit: if you would like to make one left and one right unit, double each number of cuts.
- 1 – 3/4″ Stock at 10 1/2″ x 6 3/4″ Bottom Panel – this can also be 1/2″ stock if you prefer
- 2 – 1/2″ Stock at 11 1/2″x6 3/4″ Outside Panels
- 1 – 1/2″ Stock at 11 1/2″ x 6 1/4″ Divider Panel
- 1 – 1/2″ Stock at 9 1/2″ x 11 1/2″ Back Panel
- 1 – 1/2″ Stock at 6 1/4″ x 5 1/2″ Shelf
- 1 – 1/2″ Stock at 10 1/2″ x 3 3/4″ Top Panel
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut ALL of your panels to size. This project will most easily (and more perfectly) be built if you are to cut a strip of your plywood at the appropriate width for all of those pieces at that particular width and then cut your lengths from your strips. For example, your outside panels are both 6 3/4″ wide and 11 1/2″ tall, so cut a strip of ply that is 6 3/4″ wide by 23 1/4″ or so and then cut both pieces to their 11 1/2″ height from this strip. Give yourself extra length in your strip to account for the saw blade and the amount of wood it removes. This will ensure you have equal width pieces and allow you a more perfect build. You won't have inaccuracies in width that will throw you off square by doing this.
Fasten your pieces together using glue and 1″ screws or brad nails. For fastening the bottom in place, use 1 1/4″ screws and be sure to countersink. The back is inset and so is the divider panel. This keeps you from having so many exposed edges.
Fasten the shelves in place and tack on the top. Use a Pocket hole system set for 1/2″ stock and 1″ pocket hole screws and glue OR use 1″ screws and glue starting with the 2 shelves on the outsides and the add the center shelf by screwing up at an angle from below that shelf. Fasten each shelf from the back as well and use glue. Fasten the top in place using brad nails and glue or screws.
Diagrams of Right and Left Units. The left unit will be made precisely the same way only your divider and shelf location will be reversed.
Right Side Cubby Organizer:
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
