We continue with our Hudson Collection (click here to view the other pieces already completed)! This coffee table is perfectly paired with the other pieces in the collection and I am so proud to share another of Loren’s plans with you! I promise I haven’t retired from drafting plans…I simply have some fun and big things in the works for ya’ll (no I’m not from the south, but when things are important and heartfelt, I feel the need to don my Faux Southern Accent…lil darlins’)!
! I am glad to have you all with me during these exciting times and I can’t wait to share some of the haps around here with you!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
- Tape Measure
- Sander
- Drill
- Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.
- Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards.
- Miter Saw – can also use a Table Saw, Circular Saw, Hand Saw or Jig Saw to cut at an angle.
- 1 – 2×2 at 8’
- 3 – 1×3 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 10’
- 8 – 1×2 at 8’
- 3 – 1×2 at 10’
- 3 – 1×6 at 8’
- 1 – 1×6 at 6’
- 2 – Base Molding of your Design choice at 6’
- 1 Sheet of 3/4” Plywood
- 1/4 Sheet of 1/4” Plywood at 2’x4’
**3” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System
- 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
- 7/8” Finish Nails or brad nails.
- 1 1/4” Finish Nails
- 2” Finish Nails
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 16 3/4” Legs
- 2 – 1×3 at 43 1/2” Front/Back Aprons
- 3 – 1×3 at 16” Side Aprons and Center Rails for Lower Shelf Frame
- 3 – 1×3 at 17 1/2” Center Supports
- 2 – 1×3 at 48” Top Frame
- 4 – 1×3 at 15 1/4” Top Frame Rails
- 3 – 1×3 at 14 1/4” Divider Rails
- 8 – 1×2 at 43 1/2” Shelf Frames
- 6 – 1×2 at 16” Shelf Frame Rails and Side Trim
- 6 – 1×2 at 15” Shelf Frame Rails
- 6 – 1×2 at 6” Drawer Dividers
- 4 – 1×2 at 28” Side Trim
- 4 – 1×2 at 14 1/4” Side Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 13 1/2” Back Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 22” Top Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 49 1/2” Top Trim
- 6 – 1×2 at 13 7/8” Upper Drawer Trim
- 10 – 1×2 at 5 15/16” Side Drawer Trim
- 4 – 1×2 at 21 1/4” Lower Drawer Trim
- 10 – 1×6 at 15 3/4” Drawer Sides
- 3 – 1×6 at 12 3/8” Upper Drawer Backs
- 2 – 1×6 at 19 3/4” Lower Drawer Backs
- 3 – 1×6 at 13 7/8” Upper Drawer Fronts
- 2 – 1×6 at 21 1/4” Lower Drawer Fronts
- 2 – 3/4” ply at 16” x 14 1/4” Sides
- 3 – 3/4” ply at 12 3/8” x 15” Upper Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – 3/4” ply at 19 3/4” x 15” Lower Drawer bottoms
- 1 – 3/4” ply at 48” x 20 1/2” Top
- 1 – 1/4” ply at 43 1/2” x 13 1/2” Back
- 2 – Base Molding at 48”
- 2 – Base Molding at 20 1/2”
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build your Base: Secure the Aprons using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. They will sit flush with the front, back, and outside edges of the legs. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can fasten the Aprons to the Legs using your 3” screws and glue. Be sure to countersink.
Build the Shelf Frames: Each Shelf Frame is different, but you will build each of them the same way, except that when you fasten them to the Legs, the Upper and Middle Shelf Frame will sit 1” in from the back edge of the back legs. This will allow for the Back Panel and Back Trim later. Connect the Rails to the Frame using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system you will need to use 3” screws to fasten the shelves and rails in place. Be sure to countersink and use glue. Secure the Lower Frame to the Legs and Base Unit using 2” Finish Nails or your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and fasten to the legs and use glue. For the upper and middle shelf frame
Lower Shelf Frame, Middle Shelf Frame, Upper Shelf Frame:
Fasten the Drawer Dividers in place. The pieces will sit as shown below. Fasten the Drawer Dividers together using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue and by placing your pocket hole screws in the rails (orange colored rails) and then secure the dividers to the existing frames by placing pocket holes in the vertical dividers (red) to attach to the existing frame already in place. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you will secure the divider pieces individually to the existing frame using 2” finish nails and glue.
Fasten the Sides and the Back in place. The pieces will sit as shown below. Fasten them to the Frames using 2” Finish Nails and glue.
Fasten the Side and Back Trim in Place. Miter the corners for the most professional appearance (not required) and tack on using 1 1/4” finish nails on the sides, and 7/8” finish nails or brad nails on the back. Use glue.
Build the Drawers. The bottom will sit inset and the drawer sides and front/back will be cut from 1×6’s. The Front Trim will sit a bit higher than the drawer front, on the top side of the drawer fascia. Use your pocket hole system to fasten the drawer bottom to the sides, front, and back, and to fasten the back to the sides, and the sides to the front. You will set it for 3/4” stock and use 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Tack on the trim using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue. You will build 3 upper drawers and 2 lower drawers.
Images in order: Upper Drawers Rear View, Upper Drawers Front View, Lower Drawers
Build and Top Frame and fasten the Base Molding in Place. The top frame will be built using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Fasten the center rails in place, centered above the rails immediately below where they will sit. Measure this for your own build, but know that it isn’t entirely important. Fasten the Frame to the Unit using 2” Finish nails and glue. Miter your base molding and fasten to the bottom of your unit using glue and 2” Finish Nails.
Add your Top. Miter the front corners of the trim and attach using 2” finish nails and glue.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
