We covered a fantastic large planter last week and the small planter too! They are sure to be the talk of your next garden party! This trough planter will accommodate several plantings and is perfect as a perimeter planter for your patio!
$25-$50
Tape Measure
Sander
Drill
Saw
Miter Saw– you can also use a table saw, circular saw, jig saw or coping saw to create your mitered corners on the trim!
Kreg Jig® (pocket hole system)
1 – 2×2 at 8’
6 – 1×2 at 8’ (furring strips are the least expensive)
10 – 1×4 at 6’ – I recommend purchasing redwood or cedar fence boards. They are dog eared but they are really cheap and in a specie that withstands the elements well. If you prefer to purchase something other than fence boards I recommend 8’ furring strips as your next best bet, in which case you will need 4 at 8’
8’ of 3/4” trim in a style of your choosing
1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws – Stainless Steel or Blue Kote if this is for outdoor use
1 1/4” Wood Screws or Nails – galvanized or coated if for outdoor use
4 – Curtain Rod Finials
Wood Glue – suitable for outdoor use if need be
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
4 – 2×2 at 23 1/4” Legs
8 – 1×2 at 17 1/2” Rails and Side Panel Trim
8 – 1×2 at 35″ Rails and Side Panel Trim
30 – 1×4 at 13” Side Panels
10 – 1×4 at 17 1/2” Bottom
32 – 3” sections of 3/4” trim in a style of your choosing.
For outdoor use, consider using a specie of wood suitable for weathering the elements. This isn’t required but will increase the longevity of your piece.
Once you are finished with this build, you will need to drill an ample amount of holes into the bottom to allow for adequate drainage. Don’t drill so many holes that you weaken your piece, but enough that you don’t have water accumulating and rotting out your planter or your plants!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Begin with your Legs and fasten your rails in place at the 5” mark from the bottom and 3/4” down from the top of each leg. You can use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the rails to the Legs.
Fasten the Side Panels in Place: You can go about this in a number of ways, including using nails or screws and simply attaching the boards to the rails from the top down into the board and also from the bottom up into the board (This is likely what I would do especially if I had a nail gun!). If you choose to use wood screws, be sure to countersink them and use galvanized screws. You can also use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten to the Panels to the Rails if you prefer. The Boards should sit flush with the inside edges of the rails and legs.
Attach the Bottom Panels: Using your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, fasten the boards in place flush with the bottom rails.
Add the Side Panel Trim: Using your 1 1/4” Nails or screws, fasten the side trim in place. They should sit about 2” from the rails.
Add the Trim and Finials: This portion is optional but really seems to add a little something extra to this project. You will need 3/4” trim in a style of your choosing. The diagram shows a cove style molding, but this is where you can personalize your piece and customize it according to your other outdoor pieces. For the Most professional application of molding, you should miter or cope the corners and using finish nails and glue attach to the legs. Once you have your top trim in place, you can attach your finials. I recommend basic curtain rod finials and again you can choose any style you prefer! I chose round for this plan, but there are dozens of finial styles available that would work smashingly with this plan!
Finish by filling any nail or screw holes, sand, and finish as desired! Consider sealing to withstand the elements!
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
