The final piece of the PB Inspired Banquette, this is a fabulous way to round the corner in your outdoor space or indoor dining nook!
With the other banquette pieces and the dining table:
Under $25
Tape Measure
Sander
Drill
Jig Saw – if you prefer a more angular back leg you can use a circular saw or table saw as well.
Kreg Jig® (pocket hole system)
1 – 2×2 at 6’ OR if 8’ is cheaper or all that your store sells, purchase that!
1 – 2×4 at 10’
3 – 1×3 at 8’furring strips (these are usually cheaper, but if not then get 2 at 8' and 1 at 6')
1 – 1×2 at 6’(if an 8' furring strip is cheaper, get that)
1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws – Stainless Steel or Blue Kote if this is for outdoor use
1 1/4” Wood Screws or Nails or Finish Nails – galvanized or coated if for outdoor use
Wood Glue – suitable for outdoor use if need be
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
3 – 2×4 at 35 1/2” Back Legs
1 – 2×2 at 16 1/2” Front Legs
2 – 1×2 at 19 7/8″ Seat Supports
4 – 1×3 at 19 1/2″ Aprons (2 of these will be mitered and cut down a bit)
6 – 1×3 at 19 7/8” Seat Slats
8 – 1×3 at 20 1/2″ Back Rest Slats
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut out Your Legs: You will need 3 of these. Begin with a 2×4 and cut it down to a 2×2 at 35 1/2” in height. As long as you have a vertical straight space that is 2 1/2” in height at the 14” mark (up to 16 1/2” mark) then you can essentially make the shape how you like. The diagram below shows the back legs with a slight curve just like the inspiration piece, however if it’s easier for you to have an angular leg that is straight lined, you can do that also. Just be sure your leg is approximately 1 1/2” in width all the way down with the straight section at the Front Edge of the 14” mark and that it hits the top back corner and bottom back corner of the 2×4. Think Arc or Triangular shape, either will work. Create this with a jig saw or a circular saw depending on whether or not you will go with a curve or an angle.
Fasten all 3 Legs Together using the Back Aprons: This should be flush with the front side of the legs at the 14” mark.
The inside edge of each apron will be mitered at 43 Degrees Off Center. This will be a vertical miter which is actually a bevel if you lay your board flat to cut it. The front edge of your boards will be 18 3/8″ and the back edge of your board will be 19 1/8″.
To attach use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue.
Construct the Front Leg Unit: Using your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, fasten the Aprons to the front leg by attaching it 3/8” back from the front edge of the front leg and then attaching it to the Back Legs
Attach your Seat Supports: Use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the back rest boards in place. They should sit flush with the bottom of the aprons.
Tack on the Seat Slats: Use 1 1/4” screws or nails and glue to fasten the seat slats in place. Space them about 1” apart and secure them to the frame supports. The board closest to the Corner Leg will need to be dog eared at a 45 Degree angle to allow for the corner leg. Measure and Mark for a more exact fit.
Cut and Attach the Back Rest Boards: Miter the Edge closest to the Corner Leg for Each Back Rest Board at 43 Degrees Off Center.
Use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the back rest boards in place.
The first board (top) should be set 1/2” down from the top of the back legs and each subsequent leg should be spaced about 1 1/2” apart. Keep the Back Rest Boards flush with with the front edge and curve (or angle) of your back legs.
Cut and Attach the Back Rest Boards: Miter the Edge closest to the Corner Leg for Each Back Rest Board at 43 Degrees Off Center.
Use your Kreg Jig® set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the back rest boards in place.
The first board (top) should be set 1/2” down from the top of the back legs and each subsequent leg should be spaced about 1 1/2” apart. Keep the Back Rest Boards flush with with the front edge and curve (or angle) of your back legs.
Fill and Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
If you enjoyed this post, comment below, Share it or Like it, and subscribe to my feed to stay up to date!
You can now also:
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
