Part 2 of the Amazing Project covered here! This project is perhaps one of my most favorite plans…EVER!
$75-$100
Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Drill
Saw
Miter Saw or Miter box, or a square and a saw will also get the job done. This is only for the X on the Cabinets.
Router for Glass inset if you choose to go this route.
See Part 1 for Lumber list here
See Part 1 for Materials list here
See Part 1 for Cut list here
I am labeling this an intermediate project, not because it is actually difficult, but because it is tedious and involves hanging cabinet doors and drawers. When you stop and think about the steps, they aren't actually difficult. Just time consuming and detail oriented. But oh so worth it!
**Always Pre-Drill and Counter Sink for the most professional appearance. Check for Square after EACH step. It will really matter in this project.
** This is a project that is quite a literally a “measure as you go” and build accordingly. The reason I say this is because you will want everything to fit snugly and 1/8″ will matter, so you are well suited to measure an opening and construct a drawer to fit as precisely as possible. The trim pieces if not on perfectly straight and spaced to perfection will leave discrepancies in spacing and thus, it is possible not every drawer or cabinet opening will be the same. Just so you are aware…this measure as you go technique will ensure that everything fits perfectly for your particular piece.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Create the Shelves, but the best way to utilize them is to create dowel holes and insert shelf supports to place the
shelf on, this way they will remain removable and you can use this cabinet to suite you needs better. A few holes (keep in mind these are not holes that go all the way through, they only go about half way into the Center Divides and outsides) to adjust the height of the shelf would be ideal.
You can also attach the shelf permanently with screws or skip them all together if the shelf pegs are not your fav.
You are now going to switch gears and create the Cabinet Doors: To determine the width measurements for your doors, you will need to measure the exact measurement from Trim edge to Trim edge for the width and then subtract 1/4″ (this will give you 1/8″ clearance on either side. To determine the exact height measurements, you will need to measure from the top of the drawer casing to the bottom of the writing tablet casing and subtract 1/4″ (again this will leave 1/8″ on top and bottom for proper clearance and functionality).
It is possible that given the placement of the trim, each cabinet door might be slightly different (though hopefully not) and this is
where the “measure as you go” portion begins! The measurements below are approximate and you will need to truly make sure you are accurate here.
Use 3″ Finish Nails to attach the rails and styles from the sides and wood glue.
Now this is likely the most difficult part of the process if you are a beginner, and is possible to skip altogether if you prefer to skip the glass inserts.
**There is no reason why you can't just leave this space open, but if you want glass, you will need to carve out a 1/4″ setback on the inside of the cabinet door all the way around the interior of the cabinet (so closest to the opening you have created with your rails and stiles). This will be where the glass pieces (or plexi if you prefer this) will rest. Use a router and 1/4″ rabbiting bit to do this.
Create the X shape trim: Use 2″ Finish Nails from the sides of the cabinet into the X pieces and Wood Glue. The easiest way to do this is to turn your trim piece at the appropriate angle and mark off where it needs to be cut. If you are using glass this trim piece will be 3/4″x1/2″ but if you are leaving it vacant (this is what I will likely do and what you might do if you are a beginner, not to mention you will save the cost of glass etc.) then 3/4″x3/4″ is more appropriate.
**To attach the glass, place glass of the appropriate size inside from the back of the cabinet and run a line of clear silicone around the
edge to hold it in place. You can also purchase mirror/glass holders and attach them to give you an added layer of stability.
Are you getting excited yet? You should be starting to see it take shape for certain at this point…yay for this cabinet!
Attach the Doors to the Cabinet: I have recommended a certain style of hinge above, but you are welcome to choose as you like. I have simply chosen those that most closely resemble the inspiration piece.
Create the Drawers: this again is a measure as you go step. You will need to determine the width of the drawer by measuring the opening and subtracting 1/4″ to leave 1/8″ on either side. You can use 1×4 boards for the sides and back, but keep in mind, you will need to sand them down a tad to give you proper slide for your drawer.
**Do not attach the drawer face until you have placed your drawer inside it's casing. Then measure the width necessary for the drawer face as it will likely be wider than the drawer itself since the drawer casing is in place.
The measurements shown below are approximate for mine, and you may have different measurements.
Cut the Writing Tablet to size, then attach a trim piece to the front edge using 2″ Finish nails and Glue. Again a measure as you go step, leave 1/8″ around to allow for sliding motion, but not any more than that or your tablet will be wobbly and not sturdy to use. you will attach a nob later that will likely have a longer screw piece which will also act to hold the piece and trim together, but make sure you Pre-Drill to place it.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
