This piece is the first of several that will be included in the X Collection. This piece is one of my favorite furniture pieces, hands down…out there on the market right now. In fact it isn't even badly prices at $899 but that is still more than this gal can afford, so…I bring you DIY Build It! Plans so that we don't have to go without! Can I get a little Yahoo?
I have made some alterations to the design to allow for the easiest purchasing of materials possible, but there are still some quirks and it has some tricky areas. For you beginners out there, skip the glass insert and just leave the cabinet door vacant but with the X trim, this will be easiest for you and more cost effective.
This is a 2 part project! For part 2 of this project click here
$75-$200
4 – 3/4″ Plywood or MDF – 4'x8'
2 – 1×10 @ 6'
7 – 1×4 @ 6'
2 – 1×4 @ 8'
6 – 1×2 @ 6'
1 – 1×2 @ 8'
3 – 3/4″ x 3/4″ Trim @ 8'
3 – 3/4″x3/4″ Trim @ 6' (this assumes no glass insert. if you plan for the glass insert, you will need to adjust this for 25″ lengths at 3/4″x1/2″ and a quantity of 6)
2″ Screws
1 1/4″ Screws
3″ Finish Nails
2″ Finish Nails
Hinges in this style but an oil rubbed bronze are what is used on the inspiration piece. This is your choice however.
Small nob drawer pulls for the writing tablet and Drawers, see inspiration image to match.
Sanding Supplies
Finishing Supplies
3/4″ Plywood or MDF:
A. 1 – 61 1/2″ x 15″ (Base)
B. 2 – 27 1/2″ x 15″ (Center Dividers)
C. 2 – 31 3/4″ x 15″ (Outside Edges)
D. 1 – 63 x 31 3/4″ (Back)
E. 1 – 63 x 15″ (Top)
F. 9 – 20″ x 15″ (Top / Bottom Drawer Casings and Writing Tablet Bottom)
G. 3 – 20″ x 14 1/4″ (Cabinet Shelves)
H. 3 – approx 16 3/4″ x 14 1/4″ (Drawer Bases)
I. 3 – approx 17 1/2″ x 15″ (Writing Tablets) mine worked out to 17.5 for the center tablet and 17.25 for the outside, but again, measure as you go.
J. 6 – 15″ x 3 3/4″ Drawer Casing Sides)
Boards:
1×4's:
K. 1 – 1×4 @ 61 1/2″ (Footer)
L. 6 – 1×4 @ 15″ (Drawer Sides)
M. 3 – 1×4 @ approx 18 1/4″ (Drawer Backs)
N. 3 – 1×4 @ approx. 19″ (Footer trim)
O. 2 – 1×4 @ 64 1/2″ (Base Trim)
P. 2 – 1×4 @ 16 1/2″ (Base Trim)
Q. 3 – 1×4 @ approx 19″ (Drawer Faces)
1×2's:
R. 6 – 1×2 @ 15″ (Writing Tab Spacers)
S. 4 – 1×2 @ 32 1/2″ (Front Divider Trim)
T. 6 – 1×2 @ approx. 21″ (Cabinets)
U. 6 – 1×2 @ approx 16″ (Cabinets)
3/4 x 3/4″ Trim:
V. 9 – @ 19″ (Writing Tablet Casings & Top of Drawer Casing Trim)
W. 6 – @ approx 3/4″ (Writing Tab Casings)
X. 3 – @ approx 17 1/2″ (Writing Tab Trim)
Y. 3 – @ 20″ (Shelf Trim) this step is not shown but you will cut your shelf 3/4″ less deep than it's actual measurements so that you can trim it out with this and not see the plywood edge. OR you can purchase Edge Banding and cut the shelf to size.
Z. 6 – @ 25″ (X on Cab Doors) OR if you are using a glass insert, this will be a 3/4″x1/2″ trim instead at 25″.
A1. 2 – 1×10's @ 65″ (Cabinet Top)
This is a 2 part project! For part 2 of this project click here
I am labeling this an intermediate project, not because it is actually difficult, but because it is tedious and involves hanging cabinet doors and drawers. When you stop and think about the steps, they aren't actually difficult. Just time consuming and detail oriented. But oh so worth it!
**Always Pre-Drill and Counter Sink for the most professional appearance. Check for Square after EACH step. It will really matter in this project.
** This is a project that is quite a literally a “measure as you go” and build accordingly. The reason I say this is because you will want everything to fit snugly and 1/8″ will matter, so you are well suited to measure an opening and construct a drawer to fit as precisely as possible. The trim pieces if not on perfectly straight and spaced to perfection will leave discrepancies in spacing and thus, it is possible not every drawer or cabinet opening will be the same. Just so you are aware…this measure as you go technique will ensure that everything fits perfectly for your particular piece.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Begin by attaching the Center Dividers to the Base: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Attach the Outside Edges to the Base: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue
Attach the Back to the Center, Outside and Base: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Attach the Top and the Footer: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue
Build the Drawer Casings then slide into the Cabinet and Fasten: Use 2″ Screws to build the Casings and 1 1/4″ Screws to fasten (once you insert the casing into the cabinet) to the Cabinet Outsides and Center Dividers.
Attach the Spacers then attach the Writing Platform Base: Use 1 1/4″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Attach the Front Trim: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue. I wish I could say to use finish nails here so that you have the least amount of blemish to the Trim, but you will be hanging the cabinet doors from this front piece and you need it to be well attached.
Attach the Cabinet Top: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Attach the Remainder of the Front Trim: For these pieces you can use 2″ Finish Nails and Wood Glue as they won't be bearing any weight.
Create the Shelves, but the best way to utilize them is to create dowel holes and insert shelf supports to place the
shelf on, this way they will remain removable and you can use this cabinet to suite you needs better. A few holes (keep in mind these are not holes that go all the way through, they only go about half way into the Center Divides and outsides) to adjust the height of the shelf would be ideal.
You can also attach the shelf permanently with screws or skip them all together if the shelf pegs are not your fav.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
