This collection is inspired by the 2×2 Collection at West Elm as well as their Parsons collection, but this design is not in any way affiliated with them, this is my own design and I hope you like it as much as I do!
This is very easy to build and should cost less than $50 for materials.
My vision for this includes a canvas tent fort in khaki, for a boy, or a canopy draped with something flowy, for a girl.
This design will fit most typical crib and toddler mattress sizes, and should be easily transitioned into from crib stage, by providing your child protection with the guard rail. Once your toddler grows out of a toddler sized bed, or even while they are still in it, the guard rail can be removed as long as you don't use wood glue on that portion. This piece can double as a sitting area for your child as well.
$25-$50
Tape Measure
Square
Sander
Drill
Saw
** Kreg Jig – Optional, and can be built without one, but as is the case with most projects, would definitely benefit from using one.
4- 2×3 @ 10'
1 – 2×3 @ 6'
4 – 1×3 @ 10'
1 – 1×2 @ 10'
2 – 2×2 @ 10'
1 – 2×2 @ 6'
**Kreg Jig Owners: 2 1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws.
3″ Screws – **Kreg Owners you won't need the 3″ Screws.
2″ Screws
1 1/4″ Screws
Wood Glue
Wood Filler
Sandpaper
Finishing Supplies
4 – 2×3 @ 60″ (Legs)
2 – 1×3 @ 29 1/2″ (Side Aprons)
2 – 1×3 @ 52″ (Front Back Rails)
2 – 1×2 @ 52″ (Cleats)
1 – 2×3 @ 48 1/2″ (Back Apron)
2 – 2×2 @ 53 1/2″ (Front and Back Canopy Bars)
6 – 2×3 @ 29 1/2″ (Side Canopy Bars and Upper Side Rails)
10 – 1×3 @ 28″ (Slats)
2 – 2×2 @ 48 1/2″ (Upper Back Rails)
1 – 2×3″ @ 13″ (Vertical Guard Rail)
1 – 2×2 @ 28 1/2″ (Top Bar Guard Rail)
1 – 2×2 @ 26″ (Lower Guard Rail)
1 – 2×3 @ 26″ (Front Apron)
1 – 2×3 @ 20″ (Front Apron)
**Always Pre-Drill and Counter Sink for the most professional appearance. Join Boards with a Pocket Hole system whenever possible. Check for Square after EACH step. It will really matter in this project.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials!
Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices.
Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Cut your boards to size, then begin by fastening your Side Aprons to the Legs, they should be flush with the outside of the legs and 4 1/2″ from the bottom. If you own a Kreg Jig, these are easily attached with pocket holes, otherwise you will use 3″ Screws and fasten through the legs into the aprons.
**Kreg Jig users: you should now fasten the Back Apron to the Back legs using your pocket hole system, it should be flush with the outside of the Back Legs and 4 1/2″ from the bottom.
Otherwise, for the rest of you…
You will then attach the Front and Back Bed Rails to the inside of the legs. They will fit perfectly right inside the area created by the Aprons and Legs. Use 2″ Screws and fasten from the inside.
Fasten the Cleats to the Front and Back Bed Rails, they should be flush with the bottom of the Rails, use 1 1/4″ Screws.
Attach the Back Apron to the Bed Rails, use 2″ Screws.
Build out the Canopy: Fasten the 2×2 Front and Back Bars, use 3″ Screws or your Kreg Jig. Then attach the Side Bars, use a Kreg Jig to fasten them to the Front and Back Bars and the Legs OR use 3″ Screws to attach through to front and back bars by screwing from the outside of the front and back bars into the Side Bars.
Attach the Slats, space them about 3″ apart and use 1 1/4″ Screws to fasten.
Fasten the Upper Front, Back, and Side Rails to the Legs, space 4 1/2″ apart and use 3″ Screws to fasten to the Legs or your Pocket Hole System.
Attach the Guard Rail and the Front Aprons, Use ” Screws to fasten the vertical guard rail to the Front Bed Rail and to fasten the aprons to the Front Bed Rails. Use 3″ Screws to attach the Guard Rail Bars to the vertical piece and the Leg.
If you have a Kreg Jig, use that to attach the Guard Rail Bars to the vertical piece and to the Legs.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
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**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
