This project is a repost from my guest post over at My Repurposed Life! Just in case you missed it… This adorable and simple bookshelf is Inspired by the PB Teen Stuff your Stuff bookshelf and is a continuation of a collection by the same name that I have been working on this past week. If you would like to view the other plans completed in this collection so far, click here to browse the Stuff your Stuff Collection! Here is the beauty we will be focusing on today. She’s got beauty and brains with easy accommodations for electronics and storage galore!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$25-$50
- Tape Measure
- Sander
- Drill
- Kreg Jig (pocket hole system)
- Finish Nail Gun – optional and can use screws or finish nail set and hammer
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 2 – 1×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×3 at 6’ OR at 8’ if an 8’ furring strip is less expensive (they usually are)
- 1 – 1×12 at 6’
- 1 – 1×12 at 8’
- 1 – 3/4” Square Dowel at 3’
- 1/2 sheet of 1/4” Ply at 4’x4’
- 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
- 1 1/4” Finish Nails
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 1×2 at 11 1/4” Side Trim – Cut to exact width of your 1×12 as these may vary by region
- 3 – 1×2 at 28” Shelf Trim and Back Side Cleats
- 1 – 1×2 at 31” Top
- 1 – 1×3 at 31” Top
- 2 – 1×12 at 27” Side Panels – can be plywood or mdf also
- 2 – 1×12 at 28” Shelves
- 1 – 1×12 at 31” Top
- 1 – 3/4” Square Dowel at 31”
- 1 – 1/4” Ply at 28” x 28 3/4” Back Panel
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build the Side Panels: Measure the actual width of your 1×12’s prior to cutting the length of your trim as the dimensions can vary considerably by region. Cut your 1×2’s to the exact width of your 1×12 and then you will use of your Kreg Jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to fasten the 1×12 Panels to the Legs. Then Fasten your Trim in place using 1 1/4” Finish Nails and Glue or if you prefer you can use your Kreg Jig to secure the Trim in place first, set for 3/4” Stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue, and then proceed to fasten the panels in place after that. Both methods will work, this should be decided based on the tools and materials you have at your disposal.
Fasten the Shelves in Place: You will use your Kreg Jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue to secure the shelves in place, then fasten the trim in place using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue.
Fasten the Back Side Cleats in Place: Secure with your Kreg Jig set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. The top cleat will sit flush with the top of the legs, and both cleats will sit flush with the inside edges of the back legs, leaving a 3/4” inset space on the backside where you will attach your back panel in the next step.
Tack on the Back Panel: Cut a hole for these cords 4” from the bottom of the back panel. This hole can be 1 1/2” or 2” in diameter and can be cut out using a jig saw, or hole saw bit (or a drill savvy person could get crazy drilling pilot holes until the opening is large enough, if that person didn’t have a hole saw bit or jig saw). Use your 1 1/4” Finish Nails and Glue to secure the back panel to the Cleats. The back panel is inset between the legs, and will fasten directly to the cleats leaving about 1/2” of space remaining on the back side to allow for your electrical cords to run through and out the back.
Fasten the Top in Place: The Top will be comprised of a series of 3 boards adjacent to one another. Glue and Nail each on in place using your 1 1/4” finish nails and beginning at the back with the 1×2 which will sit flush with the legs, then tack on the next board which is a 1×12 and then finish the top with a 1×3 at the front which will hang over the front edge of the legs a bit. Once you have all 3 of those pieces glued and secured, you can nail on the trim piece (3/4” square dowel) to the front of the unit using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue. It will sit just under the 1×3.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
