Another notch on the tally for our Hudson Collection (click here to view the other pieces already completed)! This chifforobe (armoire/dresser) is a fantastic option if you want the look of an armoire but need the functionality of a dresser! This provides both! And yeperoo this is Loren’s plan I’m sharing with you and I am so thankful! I have been hard at work making the site more functional and working on some big, big projects coming soon to a theatre near you! kidding…but I do have some fun and big things in the works for ya’ll! I can’t wait to share some of the haps around here with you! I will be sure to do a full rundown on the changes once they are finished (and I have decided to stick with them, or not)!
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$100-$150
- Tape Measure
- Sander
- Drill
- Kreg Jig – this is optional but will make some of your connections much much easier…recommended.
- Saw – Optional if you have your local lumber supply cut your boards. Miter Saw – can also use a Table Saw, Circular Saw, Hand Saw or Jig Saw to cut at an angle.
- 2 – 2×2 at 10’ or 4 – 2×2 at 6’
- 11 – 1×2 at 10’
- 4 – 1×8 at 10’
- 2 Sheet of 3/4” Plywood
- 1 Sheet of 1/4” Plywood (you might also get a 1/2 sheet and a 1/4 sheet to construct the back in 2 pieces if it’s a lot cheaper)
- **3” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System
- **2” Wood Screws – not needed if using Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System
- 1 1/4” Pocket Hole Screws
- 7/8” Finish Nails or Brad Nails
- 1 1/4” Finish Nails
- 2” Finish Nails Hinges. Pay attention to the install instructions in case you need to adjust door dimensions for hanging properly
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 53 1/2” Legs
- 3 – 1×2 at 36” Rails
- 4 – 1×2 at 48” Supports
- 5 – 1×2 at 17 5/8” Drawer Support
- 16 – 1×2 at 17 3/4” Drawer Supports and Cleats
- 4 – 1×2 at 17 1/4” Side Trim
- 4 – 1×2 at 49 1/2” Side Trim
- 12 – 1×2 at 17 1/2” Drawer Trim
- 12 – 1×2 at 7 1/4” Drawer Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 47 7/8” Door Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 17 1/2” Door Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 14 1/2” Door Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 40 1/2″ Top Frame Trim
- 2 – 1×2 at 15 1/2″ Top Frame Trim
- 12 – 1×8 at 17 3/4” Drawer Sides
- 6 – 1×8 at 16” Drawer Backs
- 6 – 1×8 at 17 1/2” Drawer Fronts
- 2 – 3/4” Ply at 49 1/2” x 17 1/4” Side Panels
- 1 – 3/4” Ply at 49 1/2” x 17 3/4” Center Panel
- 1 – 3/4” Ply at 36” x 18 1/2” Bottom Panel
- 3 – 3/4” Ply at 17 5/8” x 17 3/4” Shelves
- 6 – 3/4” Ply at 16” x 17” Drawer Bottoms
- 1 – 3/4” Ply at 17 1/2” x 47 7/8” Door
- 1 – 1/4” Ply at 49 1/2” x 36” Back Panel
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build your Side Panels: Miter your legs at an angle from the 4” mark down on both the inside edges of each leg (2 of the 4 sides of the leg), leaving a 3/4”-1” square at the bottom. Secure the Panels using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock with 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. The Panels will sit flush with the inside edges and the tops of the legs. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system, you can fasten the Panels to the Legs using your 3” screws and glue. Be sure to countersink.
Connect the Panels and Attach the Bottom: Connect the Rails (Gray), Supports (yellow) and the Bottom (green) to the Side Panels using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. If you aren’t using a pocket hole system you will need to use 3” screws to fasten the rails in place and 2” screws to fasten the Bottom in place. Be sure to countersink and use glue. All pieces on the back side (rail, supports, and bottom) will sit in 1/4” from the back edge of the legs to allow for attaching the back panel later.
Build the Center Panel and Fasten in place. The panel should be notched out in the back corner as shown below (notch on right side of diagram – 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″, notches on left side from top – 3/4″ x 1 1/4″ and 3/4″ x 3/4″) and the 1×2’s that connect to it will be fastened as shown with the front 1×2 sitting paralell to the panel and the back 1×2 sitting perpendicular to the panel and centered. Fasten the Panel to the 1×2’s using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Secure the panel to the existing unit by placing pocket holes in the vertical 1×2’s (red) to attach to the existing frame already in place. It will sit precisely centered between the outside panels. Build the Panel, then Fasten it to the Unit.
Fasten the Shelves and Drawer Supports in place. The pieces will sit as shown below. The drawer supports (green/yellow) will be fastened together and to the side and center panel using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Fasten the shelf cleats (red) directly to the center and side panel. Use 1 1/4” screws and glue to secure them and then fasten the shelves to them using glue and 1 1/4” screws and glue.
Fasten the Side Trim and Back Panel in Place. Miter the corners of the Trim for the most professional appearance (not required) and tack on using 1 1/4” finish nails on the sides, and use 7/8” finish nails or brad nails on the back panel. Use glue.
Build the Drawers and Door. The Drawer bottom will sit inset and the drawer sides and front/back will be cut from 1×8’s. Use your pocket hole system to fasten the drawer bottom to the sides, front, and back, and to fasten the back to the sides, and the sides to the front. You will set it for 3/4” stock and use 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Tack on the trim using 1 1/4” finish nails and glue. You will build 6 drawers. To build the door, simply cut a plywood panel and fasten the trim in place as shown in the image for the door below. Miter the corners for the most professional appearance. Hang the door according the the installation instructions that accompany your hinge type.
Build and Top Frame. The top frame will be built using your pocket hole system set for 3/4” stock and your 1 1/4” pocket hole screws and glue. Fasten the rails (green) to the stiles (yellow), so to speak, and fasten the Frame to the Unit using 2” Finish nails and glue.
Add your Top. Miter the corners of the trim and attach using 2” finish nails and glue.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
