This easy to build cantilevered table can be used for a variety of things, but my main purpose for creating this plan is to give you a table that can tuck under the edge of your sofa or a chair and sit over the armrest for use with a laptop, drinks, remotes, your book…whatever you might fancy. This would be fabulous outside next to a chaise lounge or reclining chair, it would even be a fabulous plant stand. Did I mention this is cheap to build? Yep super cheap, under $20 for the wood and you can use a box of construction screws meant for wood on wood building, which are typically cheaper and much more durable. You won’t tear out the top of your screws as frequently…
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
Under $25
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig Saw, Circular, Table, or Miter Saw​
- Drill
- Multi-Square and Carpenter’s Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig – if you build frequently, invest in this one.
- Nail Gun – optional
- Router with Patterning bit – or bit set – optional
- Here you have a choice again…This decision has no bearing on strength or stability, this is simply a matter of choice based on availability and price.You will choose option 2 if 1×2’s are less expensive (my experience is that they generally aren’t) or if the selection of boards available in 1×2’s is better…
- Option 1:
- 4 – 2×2 at 8′
- Option 2:
- 2 – 2×2 at 8′
- 2 – 1×2 at 8′
NOTE // You will purchase one of the following 3 Screws, you don’t need all of them!
- **1-1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws– If you would like to use a Kreg Jig for creating pocket holes (as explained below) to assemble this table, and you will be using 1×2’s for the table top portion.
- **2-1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws– If using a Kreg Jig and 2×2’s for the table top.
- **2-1/2″ Wood Screws– If you don’t have a Kreg Jig. You will countersink your screws for the most professional appearance. Galvanized or Stainless are best for outdoor use.
- Countersink Drill Bit
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak – optional
- Clamps
- Safety Gear
- Edge Banding – optional
- Wood Filler
- Wood Glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Paste Wax
- Finishing Supplies
Option 1 Cut list:
- 4 – 2×2 at 20″ (Base and Top Frame)
- 2 – 2×2 at 24 1/2″ (Legs)
- 11 – 2×2 at 17″ (Base, Top Frame and Table Slats)
Option 2 Cut list:
- 4 – 2×2 at 20″ (Base and Top Frame)
- 2 – 2×2 at 24 1/2″ (Legs)
- 3 – 2×2 at 17″ (Base Frame and Top Frame)
- 8 – 1×2 at 17″ (Table Slats)
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build the Base: if you are using a Kreg Jig, place your pocket holes on the inside of the 17″ piece. For regular screws fasten from the outside of the 20″ pieces into the 17″ piece on both sides.
Fasten the 20″ Top Frame pieces to the top of the Legs, then attach the 17″ Frame pieces to them. Once you have that structure in place you can attach your Table Slats.
If you are using a Pocket Hole System create your pockets as shown in the diagram below. If you are using regular screws to assemble, you might also consider attaching the slats by screwing from underneath the 20″ Top Frame pieces at an angle up into the slats to hide them. This is a bit trickier to do, and you will need to pre-drill with a countersink drill bit to avoid having your screw stick out a bit, but is definitely a possibility. You would need to use 2×2’s for the slats if you were going to do this last option. The image below shows this piece with 1×2 slats.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
// Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you ONLY use 1 image and provide an ADEQUATE link back to the original source and appropriate plan! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential. By accessing or using any part of the web site, you agree to become bound by the terms and conditions of this website as outlined under Terms of Use. If you do not agree to all the terms and conditions of this agreement, then you may not access the Website or use any services. The information contained in this website is for general information purposes only. The information is provided by The Design Confidential.com and while we endeavor to keep the information up to date and correct, we make no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability, suitability or availability with respect to the website or the information, products, services, or related graphics contained on the website for any purpose. Any reliance you place on such information is therefore strictly at your own risk. In no event will we be liable for any loss or damage including without limitation, indirect or consequential loss or damage, personal injury or death, or any loss or damage whatsoever arising from loss of information or profits arising out of, or in connection with, the use of this website. I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it. The Design Confidential.com is inspired by but does not replicate exact designs, any similarities between these plans and items sold at specialty retailers is coincidental and not endorsed by or related to any said retailers. // Affiliate links are used for tools and materials. The Design Confidential will earn a small commission for any items purchased using these links. Thank you for your support – every little bit counts!
