This piece speaks for itself but just in case it doesn’t…it’s a modification of the popular 2×2 One-Armed Daybed. This plan allows for a standard Full Sized Mattress and I have to say, I am really liking the way it looks! I was not sure how it would turn out aesthetically until I actually sat down to modify the plans…and I am smitten with it! This Daybed will fit a Standard Full Sized Mattress of 54×75″, so unless you desire to…no special sewing is required.
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
Under $25
- Tape Measure
- Sander
- Drill
- Saw – something to make straight cuts, nothing fancy
- **Kreg Jig – optional but will allow for easier attachments and a more professional appearance, not to mention it makes the building process, quite a bit easier. I recommend this…
- 2 – 2×3 at 6′
- 1 – 2×3 at 8′
- 4 – 2×3 at 10′
- 1 – 2×2 at 6′
- 5 – 1×3 at 10′
- 1 – 1×3 at 6′
- 2 – 1×2 at 8′
- ** Kreg Owners – 2 1/2″ PHScrews
- 3″ Screws
- 2 1/2″ Screws
- 1 1/4″ Screws
- Wood Glue
- Wood Filler
- Sanding Supplies
- Finishing Supplies
- 2 – 2×3 at 6 1/2″ (Right hand Legs)
- 3 – 2×3 at 25 1/2″ (Left hand Legs and Center Leg)
- 2 – 2×3 at 75 1/2″ (Front and Back Rails)
- 4 – 2×3 at 50″ (Stretchers)
- 2 – 1×2 at 75 1/2″ (Cleats)
- 2 – 1×3 at 54 1/2″ (End Aprons)
- 9 – 1×3 at 51 1/2″ (Slats)
- 1 – 2×3 at 72″ (Front Apron)
- 1 – 2×3 at 29 1/2″ (Back Apron)
- 1 – 2×3 at 40″ (Back Apron)
- 1 – 2×3 at 56″ (Arm Rest)
- 1 – 2×2 at 45″ (Back Rest)
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Attach the Rails to the inside of the Legs: Leave 3/4″ Space at either end and use 2 1/2″ Screws and Wood Glue. If you plan to take this apart, skip the glue. You can also use carriage bolts for this by drilling all the way through the rail and leg with an appropriately sized drill bit for the carriage bolt. The top of the Frame Rails should be flush with the top of the Shorter Legs and 6 1/2″ from the bottom of the taller legs.
Attach the Stretchers to the Cleats: Use your Kreg Jig on a 1 1/2″ setting and place Pocket holes on the inside of the Stretchers. If you aren’t using a Kreg Jig, use 3″ Screws from the outside of the cleat into the stretchers. THEN Attach the Cleats to the Rails: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Attach the End Aprons: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue and fasten into the rails, cleats and stretchers. If you are using a Kreg Jig, you can also fasten the End Aprons to the Legs.
Lay the Slats approximately 6″ Apart and screw in place using 1 1/4″ Screws. Do not glue the slats if you plan to remove them at any point.
Attach the Back Rest (Green), then attach the Arm Rest (Red). Place Pocket Holes as indicated in the diagram below. If you aren’t using a Kreg Jig, use 3″ Screws and Wood Glue. Then attach the Front and Back Aprons: Use 2″ Screws and Wood Glue.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
