A fabulous and stylish nightstand or end table option for you home! This easy to build Free DIY furniture plan for a Ballard Designs Inspired Louis XVI end table will save you hundreds…
Showcase: Built From These PlansI am so honored each and every time one of you fine friends builds from these very plans! If you have built this piece, please take a moment and showcase your build! We are dying to see your fabulous hard work!
$50-$75
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig, Circular, or Miter
- Drill
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
- 2 – 2×2 at 8’
- 1 – 1×2 at 2’
- 2 – 1×4 at 8’
- Half sheet of ¾” plywood
- Quarter sheet of ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard
- 1-1/4” pocket hole screws
- 2” pocket hole screws
- 1-1/4” brad nails
- 1-1/4” screws
- Edge banding for plywood
- 3 drawer knobs or handles
- Wood filler
- Sandpaper
- Wood glue
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×2 at 25-3/4” – Legs
- 4 – 2×2 at 10” – Side Panels
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 13-3/4” – Side Panels
- 4 – 2×2 at 14” – Back Panel, Front Apron, Lower Shelf Apron
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 14” – Back
- 3 – ¾” plywood at 10” x 14” – Shelves
- 2 – 1×2 at 14” – Shelf Aprons
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 13-3/4” x 18-1/2” – Top
- 6 – 1×4 at 8-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 6 – 1×4 at 13-1/2” – Drawer Boxes
- 3 – ¼” plywood, lauan, or hardboard at 10” x 13-1/2” – Drawer Bottoms
- 2 – ¾” plywood at 4-1/2” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Fronts
- 1 – ¾” plywood at 4-3/4” x 14-1/2” – Drawer Fronts
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
If using edge banding, apply to the plywood before assembly.
Cut the pieces for the legs then cut the pieces for the side panels. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the side frame as shown. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4” material and drill pocket holes in the side panels as shown. Attach the panels to the frame pieces as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back of the panels will be flush with the back of the frame pieces. Attach the panel assemblies to the legs with glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the back frame and panel. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces as shown. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the panel as shown. Attach the back panel to the back frame pieces using glue and 2” pocket hole screws. The back face of the panel will be flush with the back face of the frame pieces. Attach to the side panels as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the apron. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the apron as shown. Attach to the side panels as shown using glue and 2” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the shelves and aprons. Set the Kreg jig for 1-1/2” material and drill pocket holes in each end of the lower apron. Set the Kreg jig for ¾” material and drill pocket holes in the middle and upper aprons, as well as in the shelves. It will be easier to start with the upper shelf and work ypur way down when attaching the shelves.
Cut the piece for the top. The top will overlap the sides and front by ¾”. Attach to the cabinet with glue and 1-1/4” brad nails through the top into the side frames, back frame, and apron.
Cut the pieces for the drawer boxes. Assemble as shown using glue and 1-1/4” pocket hole screws.
Cut the pieces for the drawer bottoms. Attach using glue and 1-1/4” brad nails.
Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts and pre-drill the holes for the handles or knobs. The drawer fronts will overlap the opening by ¼” on all sides. Drive screws through the holes for the handles to temporarily hold the front in place. Open the drawer and attach the front to the drawer box from the inside with 1-1/4” screws. Finish drilling out the holes for the handles.
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
