This is hands down our most popular piece in the Provence Collection, and with good reason…. it’s gorgeous, and super budget friendly, while the original is super duper pricey! This plan is constructed in almost the same manner as the original plan posted for the 10’ Provence Beam Dining Table, only this plan uses 4×4 beams for many of the pieces rather than a double stacked 2×4 that my original plans use. This will increase the cost slightly for the materials as you will need to purchase more specialized hardware, in addition to the beams themselves, but the savings on the retail price of this table will still be in the thousands! Yes you will save thousands on this Knock-Off since it will cost you just over $100 to build and the original is $4000!
Below are the other plans for variations for this table and plans for the benches!
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build PRovence Beam Benches
Free Furniture Plans to Build a Restoration Hardware Inspired 10′ Provence Beam Dining
Free DIY Furniture Plans to Build an 8′ Provence Beam Dining Table
As with all of our plans, you are building at your own risk and you should have a firm understanding of building in general before you attempt many of our plans (some are easy as pie and perfect for beginners). With that, go forth, have fun, take lots of pictures and share them in a showcase on the site or on social media with the hashtag #builtTDCtuff and we will share our faves! Be sure to tag @thedesignconfidential on Instagram / FB and @thedesconf on Twitter / Pinterest. If you are a blogger and you post about your build, don’t forget to include a link to your post on your showcase here. Don’t forget… for all of our newer plans, clicking on the images will let them expand to enormous sizes with much greater clarity. The older plans may need updating so please let us know if you need one fixed!
$100-$150
- Tape Measure
- Saw – Jig Saw, Circular, or Miter Saw
- Drill ** with hex socket drill bit for lag screws
- Countersink Drill Bit
- Square
- Sander
- Kreg Jig
- Brad Nailer
- 4 – 4×4 at 8’
- 6 – 2×4 at 8′
- 4 – 2×10 at 10’
- 5” Lag Screws
- 2-1/2″ Pocket Hole Screws
- 3” Wood Screws
- 2-1/2″ Wood Screws
- Pocket Hole Plugs – Paint Grade, Pine, Oak – optional
- Clamps
- Safety Gear
- 3/4″ Edge Banding – optional
- Wood Filler
- Wood Glue
- Sanding Supplies
- Paste Wax
- Finishing Supplies
- 4 – 2×10 at 120” Table Top
- 4 – 4×4 at 27 7/16″ (Legs)
- 1 – 4×4 at 87 1/2″ Bottom Cross Beam
- 2 – 4×4 at 23 5/8″ Leg Stretchers
- 2 – 4×4 at 29 1/16″ Table Trusses
- 2 – 2×4 at 31 1/2” Top Supports
- 5 – 2×4 at 87 1/2″ Table Braces and Upper Cross Beams
** This table is ideal for use with reclaimed materials and it might save you a bit on cost if you decide to go that route. I would look at local ReStore locations and the like to find what you need!
**If this will be for outdoor use, consider using a species of wood that does well in an outdoor setting. Not required, but will make for a longer lasting piece that won’t need to be refinished or sealed as frequently Those options might include Cedar, Redwood, and Teak.
Before beginning to build, always check in on my site to make sure you have the most up to date set of plans, I occasionally update and change the plans to make the building process easier or to allow for less expensive purchasing of materials! Read through the entire set of instructions and all comments before beginning this project. If you print out or save plans, be sure to check in on my site to be sure you have the most up to date set of plans, as I occasionally update things for ease of building or buying. If you are new to building, read through the GETTING STARTED section and other articles found under the BUILD tab in the menu on my site, it has valuable information about how to get started, tools and techniques. If you are unfamiliar with the finishing process, visit my Finishing school for some tips and tricks for painting like a pro and for special finishing practices. Use glue to secure your joints and Consider Painting or Staining individual sections prior to assembling. This makes the paint application virtually flawless. Coat with a spray on Poly or Wipe on Poly to protect your finish and your piece and it will last for ages. Adhere to all safety standards and guidelines, and be sure you follow safety protocol throughout your build. If you are unsure about whether you are building safely, run a quick online search for the tool or technique you are using, or contact me via email or post to the forum before you move ahead. My contact info can be found in the menu of my site.
Build the Leg Bases: You will build 2 of these, exactly the same.
The Legs will be cut at a 10° Angle (off center) and since a 4×4 is square, you can miter or bevel at your choosing. The outside toe of each leg will be lined up with the outside of the Top Supports. To secure the legs to the Top Support, use your 3” screws to secure down through the Top Supports and into each leg with 4 screws per leg. Be sure to countersink so there isn’t an issue with the additional pieces in the table frame laying flat. For securing the leg supports, use your 5″ lag screws. I would secure with 3 lag screws per leg in a triangular pattern.
Cut the Pieces for the Table Top: it will be comprised of 4 – 2×10′s spaced 1/2″ apart for proper water run off if for outdoor use (not necessary if for indoor use or dry climate)
Fasten the Center Braces (Top and Bottom): Use your 5” lag screws to secure the Bottom Brace to the Leg Stretchers. Use your 2 1/2″ pocket hole screws to secure your Top Brace to the Top Support.
Cut and Fasten the Table Trusses. These will sit at a 45° Angle and will be cut at a 45° Angle . Secure to the Top Center Brace using 3” wood screws in the same manner you secured the top Support in Step 1. Use 5” Lag screws to secure to the Bottom Cross Beams.
Build out the remainder of the Frame: Use your Kreg Jig on a 1 1/2″ stock setting and your 2 1/2” pocket hole screws and glue, and fasten the remaining 4 cross beams.
Attach your Table Top Boards: Use 2 1/2″ Wood Screws and secure from underneath and up through the Cross Beams and Top Supports
Fill any Screw, Nail or Pocket Holes, Sand and Finish as Desired. For Finishing Tips and Tricks visit my Finishing School
**Disclaimer: Some rights reserved. Private use only. Feel Free to link to any of my plans so long as you provide an adequate link back to the appropriate post! Plans from this page are not to be used for commercial purposes or republished without the express written consent of Rayan Turner, The Design Confidential I hope to provide accurate plans, however, I cannot guarantee each plan for accuracy. Not every plan that I post has been built and tested, so you are building at your own risk. It is recommended that you have a clear understanding of how the project works before beginning any project. Please contact me if you find an error or inaccuracy so that I might fix it.
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So I finished the table but my two outside boards are dipping down in the middle by around 3/8 of an inch. I’ve been brainstorming but would like to hear what you think .
Thank you for your time !
are you referring to the outside boards on your table top? it is entirely possible that they might develop a bit of bowing after you bring them home – despite your best efforts to choose straight boards. temperature, moisture or lack thereof can all cause wood to do weird things. sooooo, if you haven’t already stained or finished your table, you might try removing those outside boards, then flip them over and re-secure them so that they have the aid of gravity to help them flatten. if that isn’t possible, maybe mending straps, placed underneath to secure the outside boards to the adjacent boards will help you, help them have better posture – so to speak. you would do well to flip your table over and stand on the spot that is slouching while you secure the mending straps to the inside boards and then to the outside boards. if you have trouble forcing your boards flat, tighten your screws a little at a time, every few days so they have time to bend back into shape without stressing them.
I’d like to build this table only 12′ long to seat 12. Will it be strong enough using the same plan but substituting 12′ boards in place of the 10′ 4 x 4’s and boards? I’m planning on using cedar.
ya it would probably be just fine. if you feel like there is any issue with the heft of the boards and the span, you can add in a 3rd base unit in the center and it would look awesome! you would then put the trusses on either side of that central base unit. would be stunning!
Great plans, looking forward to trying. Thinking of widening it with another 2×10. Would you suggest adjusting the Leg Bases at all to account for the extra width? Thanks again.
definitely! give it another 8″ or so on the bases and you will be good to go!
Great design. If I were to swap out the top for 5 2 x 8 and then drill an umbrella hole in the middle of the 4×4 beam along the bottom do you think it would substantially affect the integrity? Was thinking could even go 2” down instead of all the way through the beam, don’t know if it makes much difference either way.